Tokyo Heart

Tanabata - The Star Festival

Tanabata – The Star Festival

Today, July 7^th, is the day Japanese celebrate the Tanabata (Star) Festival. It’s not an official holiday, but it has been popular in Japan since the 8^th century when it was imported from China.

This festival celebrates the love of Princess Orihime, the seamstress, and Hikoboshi, a cow herder. As a seamstress, Orihime wove clothes while sitting by the heavenly river, which we know as the Milky Way. Hikoboshi lived on the other side of the river. Their meeting was arranged by her father who was one of the gods. It was love at first sight and they soon married. They loved each other so deeply that Orihime stopped weaving and Hikoboshi allowed his cows to wander freely.

Their carelessness caused Orihime’s father to become angry. As punishment, he forbade them to live together. His daughter begged him to allow them to be together. Although he loved his daughter deeply he only relented to the point of allowing them to meet just once a year on the seventh day of the seventh month, but only if Orihime would begin weaving again and Hikoboshi would tend his cowherd.

When the time came for their first meeting the Milky Way was too difficult for them to get across to each other. Orihime was so saddened that a flock of magpies came to build a bridge for her to cross the river.

Legend has it that if it rains on Tanabata these magpies will not show up and the lovers must wait another year for a chance to meet. The weather forecast for today, July 7, 2020, is cloudy with a small chance of rain in the early afternoon. Will the lovers meet or will a few rain showers keep them apart for another year?

Dirty Hearts San Francisco

San Francisco - a city loved by millions, but it sure could use some cleaning up.

We have met and talked to a lot of people over the years who have visited San Francisco. Many have told us how much they loved their visit here.

San Francisco has been, and still is, a great place to visit. There are so many things for tourists to do and see (locals too, of course) that every day can be a fun filled adventure.

San Francisco also still has some great old buildings - not just towers of glass shining in the sun - but of course, there are plenty of those too. Walking around, looking at the architecture of homes and office buildings, many of which are well over 100 years old, is always a treat. 

Unfortunately, San Francisco has a very dirty side too. 

We spend more months in Tokyo than we do in San Francisco, and while it is certainly possible to find trash in the streets in Tokyo, and the bushes lining some of the streets in Tokyo, it's nothing compared to the carpet of litter that seems to be what San Francisco could well become know for. Of course, the trash has to contend for first place with the number of homeless and beggars that seem to be every 10-20 feet apart as one walks along many of the streets. And, if you're not walking, you'll see the same people (same meaning they have their spots) at many traffic lights, just waiting for the light to stop traffic so they can do their begging walk. I actually saw two of these people do a shift change. One took his sign out of the bushes, the other put his sign in the bushes, they had a few seconds of conversation, shook hands, and one headed "home" while the other took over the corner. 

We also travel a lot. In fact, we just finished a one-month tour of Europe, staying in five countries, and other than Barcelona, where cigarette butts carpet the streets, the cities are clean. I mean, trash is not all over the place, no human feces on the sidewalks, and no overflowing trash bins on the streets. People in Europe are proud of their cities and homes. Tbey keep things clean, just like the Japanese who actually sweep the area in front of their homes daily rather than waiting for the city to do the clean up.

San Francisco - San Franciscans - have you no pride at all? Really? No Pride?

City leaders (Mr. Ed Lee, Mayor of San Francisco, are you and your employees so incompetent or so blase that you don't give a damn? Or are you all too busy figuring out more ways to screw more money out of the citizens and businesses so you can bloat the city employee figures and salaries some more?); citizens of San Francisco, beggars and homeless of San Francisco (although I doubt any of them will read this) - WTF is wrong with you people. San Francisco is such a great city yet you allow it to be befouled. You allow homeless from all over the nation to make SF their base camp (literally, camp). You allow drug needles and human shit to be on the streets. You don't clean up after your dogs.... I could go on and on, but hey, if you people don't care, then why are you living here? Move. Leave. Just don't go to some place where the people still respect each other and still know how to keep their city's streets clean. 

Oh, and speaking of crime (somebody always is), what's up with the lack of policing in San Francisco? Leave your car in a space for more than the two hour limit and those little vehicles that drive around constantly will issue you a ticket faster than you can say "hey!". 

But, have a crazy guy, or a homeless person, or just a common thief walking along the streets pulling on car door handles, or smashing car windows, or wandering onto someone's property, or breaking and entering, or even running around the street naked shouting who knows what, and guess what - there's nary a cop in sight. Maybe the donut shops are too alluring? Or maybe the mayor, #EDLEE doesn't know how to appoint a police chief that knows how to get the police to actually work? 

Okay, yeah, this is a rant, but I think it's a rant you can - and do - hear from many in San Francisco. Just not all of them are willing to write about it.

Come on San Francisco, you can do a hell of a lot better!  You can, can't you?

 

Where there’s a will…..there’s a will

Let me preface this by saying that this article should not be considered as legal advice. I am not a lawyer and I am not an expert on Japanese law. It is based on my recent personal experience in preparing a will. For a more comprehensive read about wills and many other topics about the finalities of life in Japan you are recommended to buy Wilhelmina Penn’s excellent book “The Expat’s Guide to Growing Old in Japan”. It’s well worth the small sum of $5.99 for the downloadable e-edition. A paper version is also available.

This article is written with non-Japanese readers in mind, but the basics can apply to Japanese citizens too.

My wife (who is Japanese) and I decided it was time to have our Japan wills written. On the recommendation of a friend we visited the law office of Yuki Ichikawa ([email protected]). Lawyer Ichikawa is fluent in English and is admitted to the bar to practice law in both Japan and the state of New York.

Of course, you can write you own will, known as a holographic will, but bear in mind that there are certain rules for doing so. First of all, you must hand write your holographic will, in Japanese, stamp your hanko on it, as well as the envelope, and make sure it is in a place where your survivors can easily find it. Read more about that in Ms. Penn’s book.

Keep in mind that the laws of your own country may require a different will to cover that country. This article only refers to Japan.

To determine if you need a will in Japan you can talk to Mr. Ichikawa or buy Ms. Penn’s book noted above. If you have a Japanese spouse, and have any assets in Japan, then chances are you need a Japan will.

If asking a lawyer or a public notary to prepare the will the procedure is not arduous, but it does take a bit of work. You will need to provide your lawyer, or the notary, with a copy of your family register (if you’re Japanese), an inkan shomeisho (proof of your personal hanko’s registration), a list of assets such as property, shares held in any company’s in Japan, and bank names (not the amounts, but the names), addresses for yourself and your children (if different), and how you want the estate divided. Remember, without a will in place, Japan has very specific laws about how your estate will be parceled out to your heirs. This may be in accordance with what you had hoped for or it may not. Once again, I refer you to Ms. Penn’s excellent book for more details.

In our case, we opted to have Lawyer Ichikawa draw up our wills. He provided us with copies in both Japanese and English, but the official document is the Japanese one. The English document is just for reference, but it is nice having it in both languages for ease of understanding. He is an expert, his fee was reasonable and he is a very easy, and nice, person to talk to. That’s why I’m recommending him.

Mr. Ichikawa will also act as the executor of your will, if you wish, but that duty can be assigned to anyone you name in the will (it’s a good idea to let them know, of course). He will charge for that, but that part of the fee only comes due when it’s time for the will to be executed, i.e., upon death and execution of your will.

In addition to Mr. Ichikawa’s fee you should also be prepared to pay the notary who prepares the actual paperwork for the deed and notarizes it. This fee varies according to the value of your total assets in Japan including property value, stocks, bank accounts, and other tangible assets. For the property you’ll need to provide a copy of your real estate tax bill, but for stock or cash related amounts you can just tell them the amount, no proof required.

Once you have all documentation needed send it to your lawyer or, if you’re working directly with a notary, to the notary. When the documents are prepared you will need to take proof of identification, such as a driver’s license, and your registered seal (hanko) with you, plus cash to pay the notary.

Normally, you will be given two copies of your will, the lawyer will keep one, and the notary will file an electronic copy into the nation-wide system that can be accessed by any notary or lawyer. This is the copy that will be used by the Family Court at the time of death.

Thinking about death, taxes, and wills is never fun, but neither is the potential nightmare you will leave for your family if you die intestate (i.e., no will in place). In that case, your estate will be parceled out according to the laws of Japan whether you like it or not (well, you won’t be here, but you know what I mean).

So, to wrap this up, let me urge you to talk to your lawyer (or Mr. Ichikawa) sooner rather than later and order a copy of Ms. Penn’s book today.

Help Wanted in Koenji!!

Koenji - 高円寺 - is best known for its annual Awa Odori Dance Festival, which is scheduled to be held in late August. However, it is also a mecca for recycle shops - mainly clothes, but some record shops and book shops too. This photo shows what the owner thinks about his/her book store - the Exciting Book Store!

I decided to take a walk to Koenji today. It's only about 3.5 km from my home so a walk there and back, plus walking around the area, turned out to be good exercise as I trekked about 10 km going there, around the area, and back home.

I took a number of photos of shops with rather interesting names as well as one of good old Colonel Sanders decked out as Samurai Sanders.  Here's one of the used / vintage clothing shops, "Slut", and yep, it's on a corner, like any good slut would be.

Of course, the good Colonel - all decked out in his Samurai gear - is on another corner far away from the Slut.

Why not go and see some of these interesting shops yourself with a few hours spent in Koenji walking around.

Despite the plethora of interesting shops, eateries, and interesting people the thing that struck me the most, though, was the number of shops displaying Help Wanted signs. I lost count, there were so many.

My friend, Michael, wrote of the demise of the shopping streets in San Francisco in his recent blog in Pro Commerce. Michael says that Union Street in San Francisco has died due to the strong opposition to chain stores and bad night-day balance.

Koenji has no major chain stores. But neither do many neighborhood shopping streets in Japan. It does have a decent night-day balance with numerous bars and places to eat at night, and it's known for its music scene as shown in the poster below for this coming weekend's music fest (May 4-6, 2017).

But, if anything is going to kill Koenji, and other shopping areas in Japan, it seems that the lack of people to work in the shops and restaurants will be the ammunition to fill the gun. 

Japan's labor shortage is real. With an unemployment rate of just 2.8% there are at least 1.5 jobs for every applicant. As Japan's population ages and shrinks just what are these shops, restaurants, hotels, and other businesses to do. Read more about this in my article in Majirox News, "Will Japan Become a Nation of Immigrants?"

Now, get your walking shoes on and head on over to Koenji before those shops are gone!

Mummified Hearts

The mountain forest cabin had been deserted for nearly three months when we arrived on a chilly and rainy night. The cabin was cold, but we soon had a blazing flame hissing in the main room's oil heater. 

As the cabin warmed up I toured the rooms to make sure all was ship shape. Imagine my surprise when I saw the desiccated corpse in the bath. 

It had no clothes on even though the bath was dry. Even without clothes its gender was impossible to determine as the cold dry mountain air had shrunk the corpse to a much smaller version of what it had been as a living being. 

I could see nails and hair - gray hair - was it (it because remember, no gender is known) an elder or was gray its natural color. 

Swallowing my own revulsion at this gruesome site I swaddled my own hands in tissue before I lifted the corpse from the bath. 

Holding it in my hands I looked at it again. Was it male? Was it female? I couldn't tell and honestly, I no longer cared.

Was it a mole? Was it a field mouse? Honestly, I didn't care. I just wanted it out of the bath and done away with, which I hastily did. Farewell little mole or field mouse. Rest in peace along with your brother or sister that I found the last time we visited our friends' cabin.

Thus began our weekend in the wonderful land of Kita Karuizawa.

The rain gave way to sunshine on Saturday, which meant we could once again enjoy a BBQ on the deck. Fortunately, the wind was non existent by the time we started our meal and the BBQ threw off enough heat, helped by a glass or two of red wine, to keep us warm. Oh, and the heavy down jackets we wore were mighty welcome too.

Sunday's return trip to Tokyo included a side trip to Kanbara Kannon-Do Temple near Kanbara Village. Kanbara is known as the Asia Pompeii. In 1783 Mt. Asama erupted and lava moved quickly down the mountain's western slope. Although the lava stopped several kilometers away from the village the force of the lava pushing stones and earth ahead of it buried the village and nearly 400 hundred of its inhabitants under 5 to 6 meters of soil and rocks where they have rested for over 230 years. 

Excavation of the village and Temple have turned up human remains as well as numerous artifacts. The artifacts are displayed in a nicely done museum called Tsumagoi Kyodo Shiryoukan.  If you're in the area, which is also close to the well known ski area, Manza, take a bit of time to stop by the museum and visit the small Temple. At the Temple, 7th and 8th generation descendants of those who survived the eruption will welcome you from the hut in front of the Temple, which is there for the maintenance of the Temple. If you speak Japanese feel free to talk to them as you share a cup of tea and bites of pickled cabbage. 

 

Will Japan Become a Nation of Immigrants?

According to Mr. Hidenori Sakanaka, former director of the Tokyo Immigration Bureau and Executive Director of the Japan Immigration Policy Institute, Japan has a thousand year history of being closed to immigrants.

At a press conference held at the Foreign Correspondents Club on May 12, 2016 Sakanaka, who is sometimes called "Mr. Immigration", said that Japan needs to accept at least 10 million immigrants over the next 50 years. Without these immigrants Japan's population will rapidly decrease from the current population of 128 million to less than 87 million by the year 2060, which is not far off from the 83.6 million in the years shortly following WWII. Sakanaka states that such an unprecedented decline will mean that Japan will not be able to sustain itself.

In his book, Japan as a Nation for Immigrants, Sakanaka writes that in half a century the number of people over age 65 will increase from 29 million to 37 million. This group of seniors will then make up 40% of Japan's population.

The population fall-off isn't limited to Japan of course. Many nations are suffering the same fate. China's decades of one child policy means that nation's population will shrink from the current 1.38 billion to 1.34 billion by 2050. Italy will go from 55 million to 43 million.

Meanwhile, the USA is projected to grow from 321 million to 397 million. In fact, a 2008 report by the Pew Research Center projects that the USA's population could grow to as many as 438 million due to immigration with nearly 30% of the future populace being Asian.

Sakanaka wants Japan to become the role model for immigration. Citing Japan's ancient history he recalled how during the Jomon Era (post Stone Age) Japan was a nation of hunter gathers for fifteen thousand years. The country then moved into the Yayoi Era for several hundred years and finally to pre-modern Japan when the nation became one of early government. Mr. Immigration proposed that Japanese should embellish the spirit of Jomon by welcoming immigrants and creating a community of mankind during the next 50 to 100 years.

To accomplish this immigration goal he says Japan needs to develop the legal framework by establishing two cornerstones. The first is to draft immigration laws that will welcome people of all backgrounds. Next, Japan should establish immigration agreements with as many as 100 countries where Japan has friendly diplomatic relations. Sakanaka believes that those countries should commit to sending people to Japan.

He also purports that Japan must abolish its Technical Training System which he says the United Nations has called a form of slavery. This system, which is supposed to help developing countries is, according to some experts, simply a method used to gather cheap unskilled labor for Japanese companies.

Sakanaka commented that since last year the general populace has become more pro-immigration minded. Citing a 2015 poll by the Asahi Newspaper he said that 50% replied positively for immigration while 38% were negative. He compared this to Germany's positive views of immigration of 80%. He continued that a similar poll of the entire nation done by the Yomiuri Newspaper resulted in 38% positive and 62% negative. However, young people in their 20s were 50% for and 49% against opening Japan up to more immigrants. This compares to 10 years ago when the in favor number was near zero percent.

REFUGEES

Sakanaka's stance is that of the 10 million immigrants over the next fifty years 500,000 should be refugees. This compares to only 27 refugees accepted from the 7,586 applicants in 2015. He also believes that Japan should commit to accepting 1,000 Syrian refugees per year, especially those with young children.

Can Sakanaka's dream of a Nation of Immigrants be realized? As he writes in his book, he doesn't know how much he can accomplish during his lifetime, but he will continue to take a leading role in immigration reform. He is sure that unless someone of today's generation lays the groundwork for Japan to become an immigrant nation they will be admonished by future generations as having done nothing to fix the problem. He wants the world to remember him a hundred years from now as "a visionary in Japan who dreamed of creating a global community."

O Chin Chin

  I was surprised today when a couple of Japanese friends told me they've never heard the "chin chin" song.

   Chin Chin is what little boys call their penis. It's like say "wienie" or "pee pee"   for American (and perhaps some European) kids.

   The song came out in 1969. I was in the army and based in Chitose, Hokkaido the first time I heard it. 

  You can hear the song at this link: http://www.uta-net.com/movie/902/
  The words (Japanese and my translation) are below. 

 

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Kodomo no koro no yuki no asa       On a snowy morning when I was a child
Shiroku tsumotta niwa ni dete          The white snow was piled up in my yard
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de        I held my chin chin and
Yuki ni namae wo kaittakke               Wrote my name in the snow

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                 Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Yuuyake sora ga moeteita         The evening sky was glowing from the sunset
Tonbo tsuri shita kaeri michi          Dragonflies were suspended over my path
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de      I held my chin chin and
Hikure no machi ni mizu maita      Peed in the town's water as night fell

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta             Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Natsu no kawahara no mizu no asobi     I played in the water at the river beach
Chicchakku chijinda chin chin wo          My chin chin shrank
Tsumanda nobashite hippatte                 I pulled it to stretch it out
Ohkiku nare to naitta ke                           While crying out, get bigger

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                     Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Kodomo no koro no yuki no asa         On a snowy morning when I was a child
Shiroku tsumotta niwa ni dete            The white snow was piled up in my yard
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de          I held my chin chin and
Yuki ni namae wo kaittakke                 Wrote my name in the snow

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                     Where did that little chin chin go

There you go - now you know the chin chin song!

 

Spider! Man!

A Japanese superstition says if you see a spider in the morning, it means good luck so you shouldn't kill it.

Guess I'm going to have some Giant Luck today!

Saw this monster on my office steps on the way in this morning. Not sure what it is - just that it is BIG!

Are Japanese Brains Reversed From Western Brains?

An old friend in Tokyo once told me that he is convinced the brains of Japanese are reversed compared to westerners' brains. Thus, the propensity to stand on the left and walk on the right of escalators (except in Osaka where the opposite is true, but Osaka is trying to change it); drive on the left side of the road; read Kanji from right to left (these days though, most is written left to right); pull doors to exit rather than push (fire safety hazard?); and generally walk on the left side of the sidewalk (unless using a smartphone, then like people everywhere they just wander all over the place).

I know that my wife, who is Japanese, almost always hangs up the hair dryer facing to the left while I always hang it on the storage hook facing to the right.

Reversed brains or is it just because I'm left handed and she is right handed.

In an article published in the New York times on Aug. 8, 2000 citing research carried out in the USA, Japan, China, and Korea  researchers determined that Easterners  think more holistically and pay more attention to context and relationship. They rely more on experience-based knowledge rather than abstract logic. They also come across as having more tolerance for contradiction.  The study decided that Westerners think more analytically. Westerners tend to rely more on formal logic.

See the full article at this link. It's an interesting read.

For other articles about Japan see the related posts below.

Related articles

Rikugien - Wow! The People!

Chubby Guys With Blank Eyes

Rikugien - Wow! The People!

We've visited Rikugien in Bunkyo Ward before and thoroughly enjoyed our walk through this serene garden park. With that walk firmly in mind we set out for the 30 minute drive to Bunkyo Ku (Ward) to enjoy this warm and sunny autumn day with a repeat walk and a view of the autumn leaves reflecting in the park's pond.

See this posting in this blog for my past review: Rikugien - The Waka Poetry Garden

Turning the corner the first thing we noticed, to our surprise, was the long line of people stretching more than halfway down the long block from the entrance gate of the park. The line was moving along okay as people paid their entry fee and entered the garden. Since it was moving along we figured we'd go ahead and give it another tour. The next surprise was that the large parking lot we'd used before was now an apartment building. Okay, no worries, let's cruise around and find something in one of the coin parking lots dotting the area. Coin lot number one, full. Moving on to number two, full. And so forth for the next four or five lots we saw. But wait, there's one with a green light indicating an open space. Too late! The car that just turned the corner took that slot. Then, a quick glance to our left, and there was another green sign telling us there's an open spot. Let's grab it! These coin parking lots are often very small and this one was no exception. Only three slots in total and luckily for us slot number 1 was open. Yes! Parking accomplised.

Walking around the corner from the parking lot we decided to grab a bit to eat before crossing the street to the park. Restaurant number one, full. No problem, there are more restaurants along the street. Number two, full. Number three - yep, you guessed it, full and a waiting list of names hanging on the board outside that didn't seem to be diminishing even though other customers were coming out.

Turning back we spotted a table outside the same small bakery where we had eaten in the past so my wife quickly plopped down and claimed the table while I went inside to get some items to eat and drink.

Enjoying our meal we watched the line entering the park and although people continued to go in through the gate the line never seemed to grow shorter as more and more people lined up.

We discussed it and decided that (a) we've been to the park before, (b) the wait would be 20 to 30 minutes to enter, and (c) it was likely to be so crowded in the park, which isn't very big, that walking the park's paths would be like warily weaving our way through Shinjuku Train Station at rush hour (for the unaware Shinjuku Station gets over one million commuters per day). Our conclusion was to scratch the visit to the park and drive through some of the local neighborhoods on our way home since it's a part of Tokyo we don't normally venture through.

Lesson learned: when it's a sunny autumn day, and the leaves are in full autumn dress, don't try to visit one of the most popular parks in Tokyo.  Unless, that is, you just want to sit at a sidewalk table enjoying your pastry, sipping a cup of coffee, and watching the hordes hurry by.

Get away from the tourists - head for Asagaya

Most tourists to Tokyo hit the high spots of Asakusa, Ginza, Tokyo Tower, and see the Imperial Palace grounds.

If you want to leave the tourist spots behind and get a taste of the real Tokyo though head for Asagaya in Suginami Ward on the northwest side of the city. Asagaya Station can be reached on the Chuo Line which runs from Tokyo Station with stops along the way in major stations like Shinjuku. If you prefer the subway take the Marunouchi Line to Minami Asagaya. It's a short walk from there to Asagaya Station. 

Take time to wander the back streets of this area where you'll find a plethora of small shops, mainly eating and drinking establishments, with a few other merchants in between. Some of the drinking and dining shops are only open at night, but there are enough open during the day to keep it interesting.

 

If you feel like having Chinese food one of the most popular places is Ozawa. (ADDRESS: Asagaya 3-32-1, Suginami Ku, Tokyo.  Tel: 03-3391-4138 for reservations.)They serve lunch and dinner, but lunch is a more limited menu and the last order is at 14:00. Today's lunch specials included TanTanMen, which looked to me like Singapore laksa, but wasn't as spicy nor as rich as the Singapore version. Another lunch set menu special was subuta (sweet and sour pork), which also included a very large deep fried shrimp bathed in mayonnaise.  

If you want western, Japanese, Thai, or pretty much any other sort of food you'll be able to find it without too much trouble. There are also several places selling ready to go/eat items, but it's usually not for consuming as you walk; it's for taking home (or back to your hotel) to eat there. Most Japanese don't eat as they're walking along the street. 

Asagaya is also home to the annual Asagaya Jazz Streets festival which will be held the weekend of October 25/26 this year (2014). Jazz musicians play in various small clubs in the area and there are usually a few street performances in the Shopping Arcade. 

The Shopping Arcade has dozens of stores selling most anything you could want and if nothing there strikes your fancy head across the street to the arcade underneath Asagaya Station.

Chubby Guys With Blank Eyes

At the shrines, and in many shops, you’ll see roly-poly dolls with blank eyes (if they are for sale) or one eye painted black (if they are on display and owned by the shop).

These rotund dolls are known as Daruma (Dharma) and are modeled after Bodhidharma, the founder of the Zen sect of Buddhism, who lived during the 5th or 6th century CE.

They are typically red, but there are variations in the color and design depending on the region.

Daruma are most often made of papier-mâché, are round in shape, and are hollow.  They are weighted at the bottom so they always return to an upright position when pushed over.

They are often purchased during the New Year and the buyer paints one eye black while setting a goal, or making a wish for something they want to happen during the coming year such as an increase in business or other good fortune. When the goal is met, or the wish comes true, the other eye is painted black.  The custom of only painting in both eyes was said to have started in order to motivate the Daruma to grant your wish so you promise to give him full sight once the goal is accomplished or the wish comes true.

After New Year's Day people bring last year’s Daruma dolls to the temple where they have been bought. There they are burned in a special ceremony known as Daruma Kuyo. Then, they can buy a new Daruma at the same temple for the current year’s goal or wish.

Daruma come in many sizes from tiny ones that can be used for a key chain or phone charm to big ones that are displayed in the shops and offices.

 

She fell and couldn't get up

 

We were driving along Itsukaichi-kaido (the road that leads to Fussa) today and as we passed by a side road I noticed an elderly lady half sitting, half lying, at the side of that road with a bicycle lying on top of her. I made the first possible U-turn and drove back to the side road. She was still laying there so we stopped to lend assistance and call an ambulance if necessary. She didn't want an ambulance, and she didn't want us to call her house, but she could not get up or stand unassisted. We helped her up and she wasn't even able to move for a few minutes. She was in obvious pain. Eventually we got her into our car and while I drove her home my wife followed on the injured lady's bicycle. Fortunately, Mrs. Kikuchi (the injured lady) was clear of mind and she was able to give me precise directions to her house. We got there and figured out why she didn't want us to call her husband. He was wearing a back brace and unable to lift anything. Between the three of us we managed to get her into her house and seated on the step in the genkan (entry). Her husband said he would call an ambulance because it was clear that she was going to be immobile for a while and he probably wouldn't be able to help her. Hope she let him call that ambulance.

I do wonder, though, how many people may have passed by in their cars, saw her sitting there and didn't stop, or how many passed by on bicycles and just looked at her without stopping to help. The reason I wonder is because Itsukaichi-kaido is a busy road.  And, while we were helping her, at least half a dozen people road their bikes by us. The only thing all of them did was stare until I finally called out to a couple of them to ask if they knew her and if she's from the neighborhood. No one knew her, but one lady I stopped asked if she could help by riding the bike to her house, but my wife was doing that so we were all set on that point.

Mrs. Kikuchi told me she was on the way to tend to her garden and as she got off her bike she somehow fell. We're guessing that she grabbed the bike for support and pulled it over on herself. So, it wasn't a bike "crash" as we first thought, which could have caused more damage, but as it is she was - and is going to be, I imagine - in pain for a while. But, even in pain, she wouldn't let us leave her house without giving us a gift of a box of tea that she had her husband bring from one of the rooms in the house. We didn't get her address or phone number, and they didn't ask for ours, so no way to call later and see if she's okay. Just hope she is.

Golden Week is upon us

Golden Week - that period of many holidays in Japan - is upon us! For some, the long holiday period started on April 29 (Tuesday) and will stretch through Sunday, May 11. A "hearty" few even took April 28th off, giving them 16 days of vacation time with only 7 days of actual vacation days used. Many companies close for part of Golden Week and many for the whole period.

Ask your Japanese friends what the actual holidays are though and chances are many of them won't be able to tell you. They just know that there are four holiday during this period. The actual holidays are:

April 29th - Showa Day
Birthday of the former Emperor.

May 3rd - Constitution Day (Kenpo Kinenbi)
Japan's new post war constitution was put into effect on this day in 1947.

May 4th - Greenery Day (Midori no hi)
Japan has a few of these holidays that are supposedly dedicated to nature (including Umi no hi - ocean day and a new one that will start in 2015 in August, Yama no hi - mountain day).

May 5th - Children's Day (Kodomo no hi)
To honor the children and hope for their health and future success.

This year May 6th is also a holiday since two of the above days fall on a weekend.

It used to be that Tokyo was deserted during GW, but these days the shops are open, trains are still busy, and many people are out and about enjoying the spring weather. Still, traffic is lighter and people are in a holiday mood, so it's a good time to be here in the Big Mikan (as Tokyo is sometimes known).

Traveling around Japan is not quite as much fun during GW. Trains are crowded, tourist spots are jammed, the roads incur massive traffic jams (I've seen jams that are over 30 miles long), and the hotels and onsen (hot springs) increase their prices, assuming you can even get a reservation. Traveling to and from Japan is just as bad. The news reports this year - as every year - tell us of the massive crowds at the airports and on the Shinkansen. And, or course, air fares are usually higher than normal.

So, if you do come to Japan during this period expect nice spring weather, crowds wherever you go, and watch for the festivals around the shrines with their food stalls that will give you a chance to try some of Japan's stall foods like yakisoba (fried noodles), tako-yaki (baked balls of dough with octopus bits), chocolate covered bananas, crepes, grilled sausages, and much more. Spend some time hanging out in Harajuku (see Meiji Shrine) and Yoyogi Park (food stalls, young people in interesting costumes), Shibuya, the Ginza (shop till you drop), or jump on the Chuo or Inokashira train lines and head to Kichijoji and it's great park, Inokashira-koen.

No matter how you enjoy your time in Tokyo have a great Golden Week.

 

Hearts in the Toilet - the Musical Toilet

I have a friend who always used the euphemism, “going to the Toto,” whenever he was headed for the men’s room. He called it that because Toto is one of the most famous toilet and urinal makers in Japan. (Toto is the abbreviation of Tōyō Tōki which means oriental ceramics.)

First time visitors to Japan are sometimes puzzled and confused by the buttons and Japanese only remote controls for Toto’s (or other makers) toilet seats, which some visitors to Japan call super toilets.

The multi-feature toilet seats are commonly known as “washlets” since one of the seat’s main functions is to wash one’s nether regions using the built in bidet function.

What many people, including most Japanese, don’t know is that the forerunner of today’s washlets actually came from the USA. In 1964 the American Bidet Company sent the Wash Air Seat to Japan, which was first produced for hospital patients who, for various reasons, had a hard time using a regular seat and toilet paper. It was a detachable seat with a nozzle that sprayed warm water and blew hot air to dry the user’s bum.

Some people find the seats odd or even uncomfortable. But, trust me, it’s a lot nicer sitting on a warm washlet seat on a frosty morning than it is plopping one’s derriere down on a ring of ice. Most seats allow the user to adjust the seat’s temperature (turn it off in the summer, for example), the water temperature, the spray’s pressure, and some even have a pulse feature for a backside massage.

Tourists visiting Japan, and using washlets for the first time, have been known to grow to like these seats so much that they took one back to their home country. In fact, in the USA, the seats are becoming more readily available in home centers and online as their popularity grows. One thing to keep in mind, if you decide to buy one of these nice-to-have seats, is that all require a nearby electrical outlet. Most western bathrooms don’t have such outlets, but they can be installed as long as safety type outlets are used. These outlets automatically shut off if water gets in them.

If you find you can’t live without a washlet once you’ve gotten used to them in Japan, but you don’t want to install a special electrical outlet, or hook the seat up to your toilet’s water supply, Toto and a few other companies offer a portable version that will also easily fit in your suitcase for those trips away from home.

There are washlets that have so many functions that they are known as intelligent toilets. These toilets include a multitude of features in addition to the regular warm seat, wash, blow dry, and deodorizing. They also include the ability to measure blood sugar in the user’s urine, pressure pads to measure body fat percentage, and weight. The normal washlets are often found in hotels and even public restrooms, but these more sophisticated seats are usually only found in private homes due to the high price.

The pictures in this article show samples of the remote controls typically found near the seat. One photo shows the translation (you may want to save this one). Not all have remotes, in which case the controls will be located at the side of the seat. The video shows how the automatic seat raising function works. This particular one was set for men so both seats raise up when someone stands in front of it. It’s readily adjustable for women too so that only the top seat raises.

 

See a video of The Musical Toilet

 

Decorated Trucks - Decotora

I had a lot of fun filming an episode about the decorated trucks of Japan for the Travel Channel. Below is the story I wrote about the experience.

The rumble of powerful engines, air perfumed by diesel exhaust, bright lights flashing in the night: all ambrosia to the senses of the owners of the Decotora, the Decorated Trucks of Japan. Sometimes also known as Art Trucks these trucks are the pride and joy of their owners.

The trucks range in size from small cargo trucks to megaton dump trucks. There is even one owner who imported a Peterbilt, the behemoth of the American highways, from the USA. Some of the trucks are actually used in the owner's day-to-day work, but for the most part these are hobby trucks. Expensive toys for Trucker Boys.

The major decoration for Decotora consists of art scenes, many depicting Japanese heroic tales, on the side panels, the rear cargo doors, and the passenger cab doors. Most of the owners have the art work professionally done and painting a large cargo truck's side panels and cargo doors can take a month or more of six to seven hour work days for the artist. I met one of the artists, Mr. Sakai, and at age 77 he still enjoys painting the trucks. In his former career he painted the identifying numbers on the fighter jets at the US air force base in Misawa. During his younger days, in the era before TV, he kept busy painting advertising posters for movies. Now, with movie posters a thing of the past, he paints Art Trucks. One that I saw, which he recently completed, depicts two scenes of the slaying of a three headed "Orochi" (a dragon like serpent). Those paintings took him a month and for his work he earned about US,000.

The decoration for these trucks doesn't stop at the paint job though. Trucks are outfitted with many other trappings starting with a variety of flashing lights; some with multi-colored neon lights. Most have multiple horns including bellowing air horns as well as horns that can play any number of tunes selected by the driver. Other common features include chromed ladders to reach the top of the cab, front bumper extensions, top racks, and special music to play when reversing. One dump truck I observed played Japan's national anthem as it backed up. Owners also decorate the inside of the cabs. Interior decorations include just about anything the driver can imagine. I took a ride in one that had a Swarovski chandelier. It was also outfitted with curtains, dash and window accouterments, and the owner had hand crafted fancy door panels and seat covers. One truck I saw included a tatami seat for the passenger and had a small tatami mat room behind the driver. The room was spacious enough for one person to sleep in and was entered by sliding the shoji (paper paneled) door open.

Owning one of these trucks is not a poor man's hobby. In addition to the cost of the truck, which can range from ,000 for a used truck, to up to tens of thousands of dollars for a new dump truck, the cost of decorating the trucks puts a pretty heavy burden on the wallet. Depending on how lavish the owner wants to make it, and how deep his (or her) pockets are, the typical budget is 0,000 to 0,000 (10 to 15 million yen). Not chump change in any language. It doesn't stop with the first outfitting either. Most owners add new touches on a regular basis and many of them do a complete refitting every couple of years or so. As one of the owners told me, "You can buy a house in most of the suburban areas of Japan for the cost of one of these trucks." Owners range from young guys, those who typically use their trucks to earn their daily rice, to mature business owners. The younger crowd typically owns smaller trucks and as their income and stature in the world of Truck Guys grows they move on to bigger and more lavishly decorated trucks. Several of the owners I met are also independent business owners like roofing contractors or house construction company owners.

Back in 1975 Toei started a series of 10 movies called "Torakku Yaro" (Truck Guy) about a Decotora owner who drove his decorated truck all around the country. The movie was a hit and started a fad. The Decotora owners now have their own association, The Utamaro Kai, which was named for Kitagawa Utamaro who was one of the best regarded Ukiyo-e artists, especially prints of female beauties. Consequently, many of the trucks are decorated with scenes from Utamaro's prints. The association holds regular get-togethers to show off their trucks, meet old and new friends, and pick up new ideas for their own next redecoration. The next big show will be held in Shizuoka during Golden Week on May 4th. This show will showcase more than 1,000 of the best Decotora from around Japan.

Here is a link to a short video of a few of the trucks.

Decotora Video

White Hearts

 

(Photo: our little ceramic village on our patio table)

It's always amazing to those who are from areas of the world where snow is common to see the chaos a bit of snow raises in Tokyo. The city is just totally unprepared to even the smallest amounts of snow. Drivers get confused, trains stop running, shops close early, people stock up (gotta have that toilet paper!), and numerous injuries - even deaths - occur.

Last Saturday (Feb. 8, 2014) though was an exceptionally heavy snow day. Some parts of Tokyo had as much as 10 inches of snow, a 45 year record, and that pretty much brought the city to a standstill. Roads were closed, trains were stopped, and hundreds of flights were cancelled. Over 1,000 we injured in snow and ice related accidents and 7 died. On a positive note, this is the first time I've seen so much cooperative effort to clear the snow from sidewalks and even roads (Tokyo doesn't seem to have any snowplows). I even saw a man in our neighborhood clearing part of the street with a dustpan and a lady in a kimono clearing a path from her house to the main street with a dustpan too. Guess neither of them had shovels.

It's snowing - so far lightly - again today and I've already heard people talking about going home early, and by early I mean 9:30 in the morning - so they don't get stuck in the city if the trains stop running. So far though, the snow is not sticking on most of the streets, and the actually snowfall seems to be pretty light. However, the memories from last Saturday seem to be stuck in everyone's mind and people are overly cautious. It's good to be cautious, but some do go overboard.

(Photo: path cleared with a dustpan)

Washi This

Washi is handmade paper and is typically made from the fibers of one of three types of bushes; gampi, mitsumata, or paper mulberry.

KOZO BARK READY FOR PROCESSING

Washi is actually amazingly tough, even more so than paper made from normal wood pulp. It's used in a variety of items such as Japanese kites, lamp shades, woodblock prints, and even clothing.

The production of washi is similar to regular paper. It's normally made using very cold water to prevent the bacteria that causes decomposition of the fibers. The branches of one of the bushes, kozo (paper mulberry), are most often used to make washi. After boiling the branches, the bark is stripped off, and then boiled in lye to remove the starch. After that the fibers are bleached then beaten. Wet balls of the pulp are placed into a vat of water and a sticky liquid made from the tororo plant.

 

The pulp is lifted from the vat using a special screen. The screen is dipped into the water several times until enough of it is spread across the screen to make a sheet of paper. Each sheet is stacked on top of the others to form a thick pile. The tororo liquid has special properties to keep the sheets from sticking together. Each sheet is then separated and spread on a dryer to complete the process.

If you'd like to try your hand at making washi a good place to do so is in Washi-no-Sato (washi village) in Higashichichibu in Saitama. See their English website for information and directions.

If you want to buy washi products in Tokyo there are many shops selling them. One good place is Isetatsu. They have some beautiful washi, nice papier-mâché articles, furoshiki (large wrapping cloths) that can be tied into handbags, and framed artwork. All would make a nice gift or reminder of Japan. To read more about the area where Isetatsu is located see my article on DeepJapan.

See the video for a live demo of a craftsman at Washi-no-Sato making a sheet of washi.

 

Get your caffeine fix in Japan

Coffee - the sort that is ready to drink - is available all over Japan. If you're a Starbucks fan you'll find shops in most major cities and even a few drive-throughs along the roads.

Then there's Tully's and even a branch or so of Seattle's Best. Doutor is a local brand shop as is Excelsior.

All of these offer coffee, tea, blended drinks, and food. Starbucks is totally non-smoking, but Tully's has enclosed smoking rooms. Doutor and Excelsior tend to separate their smoking from non-smoking areas by space alone so you may not get a totally smoke free atmosphere.

You can even pop into any MacDonald's for your coffee fix and most convenience storse offer freshly ground and brewed drip coffee for about 100 yen for a small cup.

And then, there are the time honored Japanese coffee shops where a cup of coffee buys you the use of a seat and table for hours on end. Don't expect non-smoking and don't look for free wi-fi as most won't have it. Plan to spend a lot more for a cup of coffee in these cafes too; anything from 500 yen to 1,500 yen (e.g., Blue Mountain, special drip through a siphon).

There was (not sure if it still exists) even a coffee shop in Koenji that served 2 1/2 year old coffee in a wine glass (Cafe French)

There are several coffee flavored food items around too including ice cream at Baskin Robbins, coffee jelly sold in supermarkets and convenience stores, coffee flavored cakes, and more.

Lotus Hearts

Despite the cloudy skies we decided to take a drive to Tsuchiura yesterday - why not - never been there. Only about 75 km to the northeast of our side of Tokyo, Tsuchiura City turned out to be not so interesting, but we didn't actually cruise the whole town.

We were more interested in seeing Lake Kasumigaura, which is Japan's second largest lake. Originally a brackish lagoon it was enlarged when a water gate was constructed at the confluence of the Hitachi and Tone rivers. This decreased the salinity and it's now a fresh water lake that's very popular with fishermen and is well used for various water sports. There are also several marinas around the lake and we saw a number of sailboats on the water.

As we drove around the lake we were suprised to see field after field (actually pond after pond) of long stemmed, very large leafed plants. At first we thought they were "fuki" (a sort of Japanese rhubarb), but we finally figured out that they were lotus plants. It turns out that this area is one of the two largest (maybe the largest) lotus root producing areas in Japan (the other is in Kyushu). 

We were amazed at the number of lotus ponds - as far as the eye could see - with a few pink or white blossoms. We later learned that July is the best month to visit when the plants are all blooming and the ponds are covered in the lovely lotus blossoms. We plan to go in July next year and see for ourselves. 

You may have eaten lotus root - in fact, most certainly if you've been to a Chinese restaurant. It's round with several holes and usually quite crunchy. 

You've also probably seen the flower pods which are often dried and used in floral arrangements. Here's one I photographed to show you what they look like.

Lake Kasumigaura is also known for the "Hobikibune." These are the sailed fishing boats that have been used for centuries. We saw one in the small museum, which is housed in a castle structure, on the east shore of the lake (yes, it's worth 45 minutes of your time to tour this and the price is right, only 210 yen). We were quite surprised at the very large size of the sail when compared to the boat, which is only a few meters long and not much more than a meter wide. The fishing nets are attached to lines that run from the boat. As the wind blows the boat along the net scoops in the fish. 

 

Traffic Criminal at Heart?

When you get this postcard in the mail it's time to renew your driver's license in Japan. According to the card it's possible to renew one month before, or up to one month after, your birthday.

I elected to go on my birthday so postcard and current license in hand off I went to the nearest renewal location; in my case, Shinjuku City Hall.

Alas! It was not to be that easy. Upon arrival the friendly - nay, even gleeful - lady at the renewal counter told me, "Oh - you're a traffic violator (the words in Japanese can even be translated to mean traffic criminal). You can't renew here. You've got to go to the special renewal center." Of course, that special renewal center turns out to be way over on the far east side of Tokyoy in one of the city's oldest government buildings. No shiny new city hall building for us traffic criminals!

Keep in mind now, my violation was 2 years ago. And, I went through the all day special re-education program (wiped the points off my license, cut my license supsenson from 30 days to 1 day), and paid my $600 fine (I was 32 km over the limit). But, never mind all that, I'm still a vile violator apparently.

Actually, the entire process of renewing your license in Japan is quite well organized. Pretty much an assembly line process. Enter the building, go to the line of machines and select two PIN numbers (can be the same, or two different numbers).  Don't lose, or forget, these numbers. You'll need them later and you'll need them if you're ever stopped for a traffic violation.  Show the clerk at the window your little piece of paper with your PIN numbers and get another slip of paper with a different number and a document to complete with your name, address, and date of birth (oh, and by the way, this is all in Japanese). Proceed to the cashier's window, pay the renewal fee. Move on to the next booth and have your eyes tested (tell the examiner which side of the circle has the open space, "ue (up), shita (down), migi (right), hidari (left). On you go to the next window where you hand in your completed form and your current license, which gets a hole punched in it - now it's no longer valid - and a slip of paper verifying you've done all this - check it to make sure the info is correct.  Head on to the classroom (2 hours if you're a violator) and don't forget to pick up the envelop with the two books of traffic signs and regulations on the way.  Listen to the lecture, watch the video, try not to snore like the guy behind me was doing. 

Education finished - one more line to stand in - upstairs again, in the case of the location I went to. Get your license and off you go; well, almost.  FIrst you have to lay the new license on a special license reader and - remember, I told you not to forget those PIN numbers? - punch in the two PIN numbers to verify and activate your license.  Okay, now you can leave the building, Elvis. 

If you're renewing with a clean record the whole process takes about an hour. Ticket in your history? Plan on about 2.5 hours.  

Oh, and by the way, I'll get to go through it again in 3 years (hopefully, the short version) since I lost my gold license (only non-traffic criminals get those gold licenses!) and I'm now holding a blue license. Of course, loss of the gold license also means loss of some of my car insurance discount next year at renewal time. 

Yep - they sure now how to make it as painful as possible for us traffic criminals!

 

Cheesy Peaceful Hearts

In a very small survey (okay, it was just one question) I did on Facebook, I wondered why nearly 100% of the population in Japan holds up one - or sometimes both - hand(s) in the "peace" sign when having their photo taken.

One FB Friend said it was started by the camera makers many years ago. So, I did a wee bit of Internet research and found out that yes, Konica perpetrated it, but it also may be a holdover from the American hippies of the 60s / 70s era.

The practice seems to have spread to other Asian countries too it seems.

In the west, we say cheese, but in Japan you are as likely to hear someone say "peace" when being photographed and the photographer will often say "cheeeezu!"

You can see why people say cheese in a Wikipedia artile - basically, it's because taking a bit of cheese is supposed to resemble a smile.

But, ask most any Japanese why they make the peace sign and all you're likely to get is a puzzled look - because they don't know either.

Should hikers be charged to climb Mt. Fuji?

 

On June 22nd Mt. Fuji was designated as a World Heritage Site by the World Heritage Committee of UNESCO.

Mt. Fuji was designated a “cultural” rather than “natural” site and registered under the title “Mt. Fuji: Object of Worship, Wellspring of Art.”

Per Wikipedia, a Cultural World Heritage Site represents a masterpiece of human creative genius; to exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design.

A Natural World Heritage Site is something occurring in nature that are natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance; outstanding examples representing major stages of earth's history, including the record of life, significant on-going geological processes in the development of landforms and features.

In the past, residents and officials had attempted to register Mount Fuji as a natural World Heritage site, but were turned down due to illegal dumping of garbage and the fact that the mountain actually lacks any global uniqueness as a volcanic mountain (from a TV show we watched last night, there are several volcanos around the world that actually look quite a bit like Fuji).

In 2012, Japan formally asked UNESCO to add Mount Fuji to the list of cultural World Heritage sites in consideration of its religious significance and repeated depictions in works of art.

Local area mayors are now proposing a fee to cover the costs of clean-up, as well as to keep the number of climbers at a reasonable level, with various fees proposed: 1,000 yen to 10,000 yen.

I've asked a few Japanese, as well as foreigners living in Japan, if they agree that a fee should be charged. I've heard both 'yeas' and 'nays' with they yeas saying the money should be used for clean-up or to defray some of the costs for rescue missions undertaken for those who are injured (and some even fall to their death on Fuji). Others felt that it's a national icon and as such people should be able to enjoy it freely.

Personally, I've never climbed Mt. Fuji nor had any serious desire to do so. I've been up to the fifth station, I've driven all around it, I've admired it from afar, but the reality is, up close, it's just a big dark mountain with no real beauty (remember, I said from up close - from a distance, it's a majestic mountain and I always enjoy seeing it, especially covered in snow).

So - what do you think - hikers should be or should not be charged? If yes, how much is appropriate? 1,000 yen ($10)? 10,000 yen ($100)

The Waka Poetry Garden - Rikugien

             Crossing the Togetsukyo

Rikugien is a very nice garden for walking the park paths, up the gentle hills, and around the pond while taking in the sights and sounds of this park within the confines of a busy city.

The garden was created based on the theme of Waka poetry. It's a typical example of the gardens of the Edo period.

Donated to the city by the family of the founder of Mitsubishi, Iwasaki Yataro in 1953, the garden was designated as a special site of exceptional beautry and is an important cultural asset.

                   Rhododendrons in Bloom

Getting to the garden is quite easy. Take the JR Yamanote Line, or the Namboku Subway Line to Komagome Station. Or, take the Toei Mita Line to Sengoku Station. Both stations are just a few minutes walk from the garden.

Entry is 300 yen for adults, 150 yen for those 65 and over, and free for primary school chilren or younger and junior high students living or attending school in Tokyo. The garden is open from 9:00 - 17:00 daily (closed Dec. 29 - Jan. 1), but the last entry is at 16:30.

                     Tsutsuji-no-chaya

Hiking the Nishizawa Gorge Trail in Yamanashi

Hiking the Nishizawa Gorge When most people think of Yamanashi the places that come to mind are the Southern Alps, the Fuji Five-Lakes area, Mt. Fuji, fruit farms, and wineries. However, one of the most popular day-hike trails within a couple of hours commute time from Tokyo is also located in Yamanashi. The Nishizawa Keikoku (Gorge) is one of the most beautiful valleys of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park.
The round trip hike from the parking lot (or bus stop) is about 12 kilometers and takes about four hours depending on your own speed and the speed of the people in front of you. This is a popular hiking trail and gets quite busy on the weekends, especially during the autumn months when the foliage is changing to fall colors. The first half of the hike is mainly an upward climb, with a few flat areas, and takes you along a picturesque river and past several waterfalls. The hike to the top takes a bit over half the total time and you'll find yourself hiking along a dirt trail, rocks, manmade steps, and a couple of bridges across the river. Watch for signs along that way that point out some rocks that, when viewed from the right angle, suggest the shape of certain animals, such as "kaeru ishi" (frog rock). It's not a particularly arduous hike, but there are places where you'll be glad for the cables that are attached to the rocks as you use them to pull yourself up and over some of the rocks and steeper parts of the trail. If you take children along make sure they understand that the hike, like any hike, can be dangerous. You don't want them slipping on the rocks and sliding under the rope for what could be a long drop down to the cold river water. Also, it's a good idea to wear sturdy hiking shoes as some places along the trail are covered in loose gravel, or slippery from the water running off the valley's wooded walls. If you have hiking poles take them along; and a pair of those ever popular Japanese work gloves known as "gunte" (available in hardware stores or most any convenience mart) can save your hands from nicks or bruises as you clamber over rocks or use the cables and chains along the trail to keep you from falling.
Roughly 90 minutes from the trailhead (closer to two hours from the parking lot) you'll come to Nanatsugama-Godan-no-Taki, a beautiful five-tiered waterfall. It's possible to climb down and over the rocks to get closer to the waterfall for a picnic stop. There are other spots along the trail where it's possible to stop and have lunch or a snack break as you admire the scenery. However, most people continue to the top of the trail where there are a few rough hewn benches and a wooden platform where you can sit and have the picnic lunch you've brought along. There is also a toilet here and it's the only one since just before the trailhead. Be sure to bring along bottles of water, too, as there is no place to get water along the hike.
Keep going after the top of the trail and one you cross the river the road down is not much more than a walk through the forest along a well packed smooth path that is more of a road than it is a trail. Note the steel rails that are along parts of the path and in some places jutting out into space over steep drop offs. In days past these rails were used for flatcars to haul the cut timber down from the mountain. The flatcars were pulled up the mountain by horses and the loggers would load the trimmed logs on the cars for the ride down the mountain where the logs could be dumped into the river to be floated on down to the mills. As you walk down you'll see one of the flatcars with logs stacked on it depicting what they looked like long ago. Getting there: by car take the Chuo Expressway from Tokyo to the Katsunuma exit. Follow route 20 west to highway route 140. Go north to Nishizawa Keikoku (roughly 2.5 hours from Tokyo). By train take the JR Chuo Line to Yamanashi-shi Station (95 minutes by direct limited express train- about 4000 yen one way - from Shinjuku Station. From Yamanashi-shi Station, there are 3-5 bus round trips per day to the trailhead of the Nishizawa Gorge. The bus ride takes about one hour and costs 900 yen one way. If you decide to make it an overnight trip there are numerous Japanese inns along route 140 or within a hour's drive from Nishizawa Gorge. For an English language website of some hotels in the area see: http://www.japanican.com/ A map is available at: https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=%E8%A5%BF%E6%B2%A2%E6%B8%93%E8%B0%B7%E9%9B%BB%E8%A9%B1%E7%95%AA%E5%8F%B7&fb=1&gl=us&hq=%E8%A5%BF%E6%B2%A2%E6%B8%93%E8%B0%B7%E9%9B%BB%E8%A9%B1%E7%95%AA%E5%8F%B7&hnear=%E8%A5%BF%E6%B2%A2%E6%B8%93%E8%B0%B7%E9%9B%BB%E8%A9%B1%E7%95%AA%E5%8F%B7&cid=0,0,10334973919460279936&ei=jepXUav-Os6fiQfJu4H4Ag&sqi=2&ved=0CK0BEPwSMAA

Spring Hearts

In the USA, where I hail from, the sight of a red-red robin (comes bob-bob bobbin' along) heralds the start of spring.

Although Japan has robins - known as "komadori" - most people don't associate the sighting of one as the beginning of spring. In fact, most probably wouldn't know what a komadori looks like. (Photo below for those of us who don't.)

                    Komadori

For the Japanese, and most foreigners who have been here any length of time, spring starts in Japan when the sakura (cherry) trees start to blossom. Actually, the plum trees bloom 2 to 4 weeks before the sakura, but to me those are the pre-spring blossoms. Lovely pink and white plum flowers to get our thoughts turning to spring.

         Japanese Plum Blossom

At our Toastmasters meeting this week, when asked what brings spring to mind for them, most all the participants, Japanese and non-Japanese alike said it's when the sakura trees bloom. Now that the flowers are opening up we can expect to see hordes of people in almost any location where there is a sakura tree or three. People will be clustered under the trees, sitting on blue ground tarps, enjoying snacks, sake, wine, beer, or any other of their favorite liquid refreshments for an afternoon or evening of "hanami" - viewing the flowers. Of course, there will be a little flower viewing done, but by the time the evening is over most of the viewing will be at ground level since sake heavy heads are pretty hard to lift up to where the actual flowers are. 

           Hanami along the river

So, if you're one of the hanami party goers - enjoy - and kampai!

Day Trekking at Mt. Takao

At 599 meters, or just under 2,000 feet, Mount Takao - Takaozan in Japanese - isn't an especially high mountain. However, with over half a dozen trails leading to the top, in addition to a cable car and chair lift that goes about halfway to the summit, Takaozan offers a great place for a day outing.

                    Step Up! Inariyama Trail

If you enjoy trekking you'll enjoy Takaozan. We've hiked a few of the trails and today we decided to tackle the Inariyama Trail. This trail, which takes about 90 minutes to the top, starts just past the left side of the cable car station. Look for the brown colored trail on the big map in front of the station. If you take this trail be prepared to climb lots of steps. Not concrete steps, but steps cut into the dirt trail with logs to keep the dirt in place. The trail is mostly an incline, but there are a couple of places where it flattens out and a couple where it goes downhill. Don't let this fool you - that just means there is another uphill climb from those spots. We do recommend that you wear trekking shoes or at least some very sturdy shoes with soles that grip the dirt.

When you come to a flat area with a few benches you'll see stone steps leading up to the visitor center. Take these steps if you want to go up there at this stage. We opted to continue on around the left side of the summit. About a quarter of the way around you'll see a trail heading off to the right and steps just to the right of that. These steps also go up to the visitor center. To the left you'll see three more trails (don't count the one going up the steps to the soba restaurant). These three paths converge just before an area called Icchodaira. We opted for the center path. Wow! Steps, steps, steps, and more steps! Going up is tough enough, but coming down will give your thigh muscles a good workout.

At the convergence of the trails we walked on ahead, up more steps (of course) to the flat area of Ichhodaira where there are a few open shelters if you want to take a break. It's possible to continue hiking and either go to Lake Sagami or do a long loop around to return the base of the visitor center summit. Since that loop takes almost four hours we decided to turn around and go back down those steps to the convergence point. From there we took the left trail, which is an upward hike, but not particularly arduous. We elected to then climb up to the visitor center for a bowl of noodles and some hot oden for lunch. This is a busy area and on a clear day, if you're there in the late afternoon, you may see several people with their cameras set up just waiting for the sun to go behind Mount Fuji. This produces the phenomenon known as Diamond Fuji when the sun's rays shine out like diamond rays from behind the mountain. Unfortunately, today was too hazy, and the wind was even gusting up some dust clouds, to even see Mt. Fuji.

We opted to hike down Trail 1 for the return trip. Although it's a pretty boring trail (concrete all the way), it does lead to a couple of interesting areas on the way down. At the first small Jinja (Shrine) take time to walk through the stone circle after making a wish. Ring the metal rings hanging on a pole on the back side of the stone circle as you offer a prayer for your wish to come true.

                       The Wishing Circle

Keep going down till you come to Yaku-ou-in Shrine. Have a look at the shrine's old buildings before making your way down through the Tori Gate and down the steps where you should turn left to keep going back down to the base. As noted, it's a concrete trail and it's a bit steep downhill walk all the way down.

               Old Carvings at Yaku-ou-in Shrine

Once you reach the base stop by any of the shops for a soft cream snack or try some of the freshly made sembei crackers sold at several of the shops.Getting to Takao is an easy. Just take the Keio train from Shinjuku and get off at Takaosanguchi Station. It takes less than an hour and the train fare is just 370 yen. Or, you can drive out the Chuo Expressway, connect to the new section of the Ken-o Expressway, and take the Takaosan exit. Turn left at the light and you'll come to the entrance about 3 kilometers down the road (be sure to take the left fork very soon after you turn left from the expressway). If the first parking lot (just past the bridge) is full drive up the hill about 20 meters to the next "P" sign. Parking is 1,000 yen for the day.

Plum Blossoms and an Easy Hike

Japan is well known for its cherry blossoms, but did you know that the plum blossoms bloom a month or more earlier than the cherry trees? And, the plum blossoms, in shades of white and pink, can be just as beautiful to see.

There are many plum gardens, known as bai-en, around Japan including a few in or near Tokyo. However, if you want to get out of Tokyo for a nicely blended easy hike and plum blossom viewing, head to Yugawara to see the Makuyama Bai-en Koen (Mount Maku Plum Garden Park). The trees usually start blooming in late February or early March. By mid-March most of the 4,000 trees in the park will be in full bloom and it's pretty much over by the end of the month. Entry to the park is 200 yen.

At 626 meters Makuyama is a fairly easy climb, even for the kids. However, be sure to wear sturdy shoes as there are a lot of steps and loose gravel as you climb through the plum orchard. A map for the hike is available at the park office. Watch for the rock climbers as you make your way up the steps to the upper level of the orchard. There are usually a few people there doing their best to scale several sheer cliffs.

Plan to get there early enough to have time to view the plum blossoms and take a few photos before you leave the orchard and head up the mountain. Of course, by the time you leave the plum tree orchard you'll already be a good part of the way up. Make sure to follow the map once you get to the top or you may wind up a pretty fair distance from the park. The map route will bring you around the back of the mountain and down to the road that follows the river back to the park. Pack a picnic lunch to enjoy as you take in the view from the top of the mountain.

Back at the bottom walk along the road, or in places you can walk beside the river, to the park. If you're there during the main plum blossom viewing season you'll find plenty of small stalls selling drinks and food in the open field by the park office. Or, take advantage of one of the picnic tables they have set up to enjoy the lunch you've packed along, if you didn't eat it on top of the mountain.

The park closes at 4:00 P.M. and the last bus for Yugawara Station leaves around 4:30. Taxis are also available and the taxi ride to the station should be around 1,200 - 1,500 yen.

If you're not ready to head back to Tokyo, or wherever you started from, Yugawara offers a large number of onsen (hot springs) hotels and inns. You can spend a night or two or just pop in to one of the "higairi" (day use) onsens for a few hundred yen for a relaxing soak in the hot spring water before catching your train. The main street in front of Yugawara Station is lined with numerous shops selling local foods and souvenirs.

How much for a funeral wake

Yesterday I received a fax (fax versus email in Japan -I'll save that for another post) telling me that a long time friend's mother had passed away. The wake service was being held that same night. He has been a friend for almost 30 years so of course I was going to the wake.

Then, my quandary started. The custom in Japan is to place some money into a special envelope that can be bought at any stationary store or even a convenience mart. This money is then given to someone at the reception area of the wake. I'm never sure what the proper amount of money is. Should I give ¥10,000? 20,000? 30,000?

I contacted a couple of Japanese friends to ask the amount. One thing I learned quickly is, definitely not 20,000. In Japan, for a funeral gift, you don't give even numbers so my choice was either ¥10,000 or ¥30,000 or more of course if I wanted. Since I know that for this particular family money is not an issue I felt that ¥30,000 would be a bit over-the-top. I settled on 10,000 yen.

This particular wake was held at one of the large temples in Tokyo. When I arrived there the process was to register my name and then hand over the envelope. Once that was completed I took my place in line waiting for my turn to go into the ceremony hall to burn some incense and offer a prayer for the soul of the departed.

The next step is to turn to the seated family members and bow. Then, as I departed the ceremony hall the process was to bow to the sons and daughters in law. What was a bit surprising was that everybody bows, but nobody offers words of condolence to the family. Everything is done in silence other than the chanting of the Buddhist monks.

I have attended several funerals in Japan, but this one was a little different as the family is a pretty well-known business family so the number of people attending was well over a hundred. The actual funeral service will be held today and I would imagine there will be another hundred or more people attending that.

Just another aspect of living in Japan.

A Great New Year Activity In Tokyo - Take a 7 Lucky Gods Pilgrimage

If you're in Japan during the New Year season an interesting day can be spent making a "pilgrimage tour" to the shrines and temples to gather your collection of the 7 lucky gods. The lucky god statuettes are sold at the various shrines and temples you'll visit on this tour. Be sure to pick up the little boat too. After all, your 7 little gods need some sort of transport.

There are several such tours available around Tokyo. One of the better walks starts at Horikiri train station on the Tōbu Isesaki Line. From there set off on your course along the Sumida River to find
those seven little friends who are going to bring you good fortune and good luck in the new year.  There are signs along the way (in Japanese) pointing you to the next temple or shrine. Or, just
follow the groups of other "pilgrims" making the same tour. You can also ask people along the way - in Japan, it's not hard to find some kind soul who will give you direction.

The pilgrimage trail outlined below was devised in 1804 by Sawara Kiku, a retired curio dealer. He was a man who liked to dabble in Chinese culture. Sawara owned land in the vicinity that he had turned into a garden, Hyakkaen. He installed a small statue of the Chinese deity Fukurokuju. Once this task was completed he searched the temples and shrines in the vicinity to complete the set of the lucky seven gods and so the pilgrimage was born.

Tamonji

Stop one is at the Tamon Temple (Tamonji). Tamon is another name for Bishamon, the first of the statuettes you can buy, and the Lucky Deity of this temple. Bishamon/Tamon is known as a protector of Buddhism from evil forces and he also serves as the guardian of the other six Deities of Good
Fortune. Tamonji Temple stands in the northern part of Mukojima, which means the "Side Yonder of the River," and therefore acts as the protector of the area. The temple sports a nice thatched gate, the only one left in the whole of the metropolis.

The next stop is Shirahige Jinja (White Whiskers Shrine), where you can buy Jurojin, the deity of longevity. Shirahige is a deity of Korean origin. However, he is not one of the 7 gods of good fortune, but like Jurojin he sports a long white beard so the two are easily associated with each other.
Jurojin was originally a Chinese god of longevity and he also carries a long staff and is dressed in the clothes of a scholar.

Shirahige Jinja

From there head for Hyakkaen (of Mr. Sawara Kiku fame, noted above). The garden area covers about 3 acres and the plants and flowers of the garden were all selected based on association with Chinese literature. This is because of the Chinese centered interests during the Edo period, which was the
era when this garden was completed. There is a small shrine in the garden dedicated to Fukurokuju, the Chinese deity of Good Luck, Fortune and Long Life.

Then, on to Chomeiji, the temple of long life and the home of Benten, the only female of the 7 lucky gods. Benten is the deity of music and fine arts. She is not of Chinese origin, but harks back to an Indian water sprite. Chomeiji also has a link with water and there is a sacred spring on the
grounds. It is purported that the water from this spring cured Iemitsu, who was the third Tokugawa Shogun (war lord) of a stomach ailment. Drink the water if you like, so the old tummy will be in great shape for all the New Year food you'll be enjoying.

A short 50 meters from Chomeiji puts you at Kofukuji, a Chinese style temple that was founded in 1673 although the present day buildings were done in 1933 after the destruction of the 1923 earthquake. This temple houses Hotei, the jolly Chinese priest with a huge belly and a big smile. Hotei is the god of happiness and contentment. He dispenses gifts from his treasure bag -
sort of the Chinese Santa Claus!

Mimeguri Jinja

You're almost there - the last stop on the pilgrimage -which is Mimeguri Jinja. Mimeguri was founded in the 14th century, but its history goes even further back. However, the central structure that stands there today was built in 1850. This shrine possesses two of the 7 lucky gods. Ebisu is the patron of fishermen, commerce, and good fortune and carries a fishing rod as well as his catch, a large sea bream. Daikoku, the god of wealth, farmers, and the kitchen is a mingling of an Indian god and the Japanese Okuninushi. He stands on rice bales and carries a mallet that he uses to scatter money around. Both gods are very cheerful and extremely popular in Japan.

Now you have your 7 gods and you should also have the boat, which is the 7 gods treasure craft that they sail into the harbor every New Year's eve.