Tokyo Heart

Tanabata - The Star Festival

Tanabata – The Star Festival

Today, July 7^th, is the day Japanese celebrate the Tanabata (Star) Festival. It’s not an official holiday, but it has been popular in Japan since the 8^th century when it was imported from China.

This festival celebrates the love of Princess Orihime, the seamstress, and Hikoboshi, a cow herder. As a seamstress, Orihime wove clothes while sitting by the heavenly river, which we know as the Milky Way. Hikoboshi lived on the other side of the river. Their meeting was arranged by her father who was one of the gods. It was love at first sight and they soon married. They loved each other so deeply that Orihime stopped weaving and Hikoboshi allowed his cows to wander freely.

Their carelessness caused Orihime’s father to become angry. As punishment, he forbade them to live together. His daughter begged him to allow them to be together. Although he loved his daughter deeply he only relented to the point of allowing them to meet just once a year on the seventh day of the seventh month, but only if Orihime would begin weaving again and Hikoboshi would tend his cowherd.

When the time came for their first meeting the Milky Way was too difficult for them to get across to each other. Orihime was so saddened that a flock of magpies came to build a bridge for her to cross the river.

Legend has it that if it rains on Tanabata these magpies will not show up and the lovers must wait another year for a chance to meet. The weather forecast for today, July 7, 2020, is cloudy with a small chance of rain in the early afternoon. Will the lovers meet or will a few rain showers keep them apart for another year?

Dirty Hearts San Francisco

San Francisco - a city loved by millions, but it sure could use some cleaning up.

We have met and talked to a lot of people over the years who have visited San Francisco. Many have told us how much they loved their visit here.

San Francisco has been, and still is, a great place to visit. There are so many things for tourists to do and see (locals too, of course) that every day can be a fun filled adventure.

San Francisco also still has some great old buildings - not just towers of glass shining in the sun - but of course, there are plenty of those too. Walking around, looking at the architecture of homes and office buildings, many of which are well over 100 years old, is always a treat. 

Unfortunately, San Francisco has a very dirty side too. 

We spend more months in Tokyo than we do in San Francisco, and while it is certainly possible to find trash in the streets in Tokyo, and the bushes lining some of the streets in Tokyo, it's nothing compared to the carpet of litter that seems to be what San Francisco could well become know for. Of course, the trash has to contend for first place with the number of homeless and beggars that seem to be every 10-20 feet apart as one walks along many of the streets. And, if you're not walking, you'll see the same people (same meaning they have their spots) at many traffic lights, just waiting for the light to stop traffic so they can do their begging walk. I actually saw two of these people do a shift change. One took his sign out of the bushes, the other put his sign in the bushes, they had a few seconds of conversation, shook hands, and one headed "home" while the other took over the corner. 

We also travel a lot. In fact, we just finished a one-month tour of Europe, staying in five countries, and other than Barcelona, where cigarette butts carpet the streets, the cities are clean. I mean, trash is not all over the place, no human feces on the sidewalks, and no overflowing trash bins on the streets. People in Europe are proud of their cities and homes. Tbey keep things clean, just like the Japanese who actually sweep the area in front of their homes daily rather than waiting for the city to do the clean up.

San Francisco - San Franciscans - have you no pride at all? Really? No Pride?

City leaders (Mr. Ed Lee, Mayor of San Francisco, are you and your employees so incompetent or so blase that you don't give a damn? Or are you all too busy figuring out more ways to screw more money out of the citizens and businesses so you can bloat the city employee figures and salaries some more?); citizens of San Francisco, beggars and homeless of San Francisco (although I doubt any of them will read this) - WTF is wrong with you people. San Francisco is such a great city yet you allow it to be befouled. You allow homeless from all over the nation to make SF their base camp (literally, camp). You allow drug needles and human shit to be on the streets. You don't clean up after your dogs.... I could go on and on, but hey, if you people don't care, then why are you living here? Move. Leave. Just don't go to some place where the people still respect each other and still know how to keep their city's streets clean. 

Oh, and speaking of crime (somebody always is), what's up with the lack of policing in San Francisco? Leave your car in a space for more than the two hour limit and those little vehicles that drive around constantly will issue you a ticket faster than you can say "hey!". 

But, have a crazy guy, or a homeless person, or just a common thief walking along the streets pulling on car door handles, or smashing car windows, or wandering onto someone's property, or breaking and entering, or even running around the street naked shouting who knows what, and guess what - there's nary a cop in sight. Maybe the donut shops are too alluring? Or maybe the mayor, #EDLEE doesn't know how to appoint a police chief that knows how to get the police to actually work? 

Okay, yeah, this is a rant, but I think it's a rant you can - and do - hear from many in San Francisco. Just not all of them are willing to write about it.

Come on San Francisco, you can do a hell of a lot better!  You can, can't you?

 

Where there’s a will…..there’s a will

Let me preface this by saying that this article should not be considered as legal advice. I am not a lawyer and I am not an expert on Japanese law. It is based on my recent personal experience in preparing a will. For a more comprehensive read about wills and many other topics about the finalities of life in Japan you are recommended to buy Wilhelmina Penn’s excellent book “The Expat’s Guide to Growing Old in Japan”. It’s well worth the small sum of $5.99 for the downloadable e-edition. A paper version is also available.

This article is written with non-Japanese readers in mind, but the basics can apply to Japanese citizens too.

My wife (who is Japanese) and I decided it was time to have our Japan wills written. On the recommendation of a friend we visited the law office of Yuki Ichikawa ([email protected]). Lawyer Ichikawa is fluent in English and is admitted to the bar to practice law in both Japan and the state of New York.

Of course, you can write you own will, known as a holographic will, but bear in mind that there are certain rules for doing so. First of all, you must hand write your holographic will, in Japanese, stamp your hanko on it, as well as the envelope, and make sure it is in a place where your survivors can easily find it. Read more about that in Ms. Penn’s book.

Keep in mind that the laws of your own country may require a different will to cover that country. This article only refers to Japan.

To determine if you need a will in Japan you can talk to Mr. Ichikawa or buy Ms. Penn’s book noted above. If you have a Japanese spouse, and have any assets in Japan, then chances are you need a Japan will.

If asking a lawyer or a public notary to prepare the will the procedure is not arduous, but it does take a bit of work. You will need to provide your lawyer, or the notary, with a copy of your family register (if you’re Japanese), an inkan shomeisho (proof of your personal hanko’s registration), a list of assets such as property, shares held in any company’s in Japan, and bank names (not the amounts, but the names), addresses for yourself and your children (if different), and how you want the estate divided. Remember, without a will in place, Japan has very specific laws about how your estate will be parceled out to your heirs. This may be in accordance with what you had hoped for or it may not. Once again, I refer you to Ms. Penn’s excellent book for more details.

In our case, we opted to have Lawyer Ichikawa draw up our wills. He provided us with copies in both Japanese and English, but the official document is the Japanese one. The English document is just for reference, but it is nice having it in both languages for ease of understanding. He is an expert, his fee was reasonable and he is a very easy, and nice, person to talk to. That’s why I’m recommending him.

Mr. Ichikawa will also act as the executor of your will, if you wish, but that duty can be assigned to anyone you name in the will (it’s a good idea to let them know, of course). He will charge for that, but that part of the fee only comes due when it’s time for the will to be executed, i.e., upon death and execution of your will.

In addition to Mr. Ichikawa’s fee you should also be prepared to pay the notary who prepares the actual paperwork for the deed and notarizes it. This fee varies according to the value of your total assets in Japan including property value, stocks, bank accounts, and other tangible assets. For the property you’ll need to provide a copy of your real estate tax bill, but for stock or cash related amounts you can just tell them the amount, no proof required.

Once you have all documentation needed send it to your lawyer or, if you’re working directly with a notary, to the notary. When the documents are prepared you will need to take proof of identification, such as a driver’s license, and your registered seal (hanko) with you, plus cash to pay the notary.

Normally, you will be given two copies of your will, the lawyer will keep one, and the notary will file an electronic copy into the nation-wide system that can be accessed by any notary or lawyer. This is the copy that will be used by the Family Court at the time of death.

Thinking about death, taxes, and wills is never fun, but neither is the potential nightmare you will leave for your family if you die intestate (i.e., no will in place). In that case, your estate will be parceled out according to the laws of Japan whether you like it or not (well, you won’t be here, but you know what I mean).

So, to wrap this up, let me urge you to talk to your lawyer (or Mr. Ichikawa) sooner rather than later and order a copy of Ms. Penn’s book today.

Help Wanted in Koenji!!

Koenji - 高円寺 - is best known for its annual Awa Odori Dance Festival, which is scheduled to be held in late August. However, it is also a mecca for recycle shops - mainly clothes, but some record shops and book shops too. This photo shows what the owner thinks about his/her book store - the Exciting Book Store!

I decided to take a walk to Koenji today. It's only about 3.5 km from my home so a walk there and back, plus walking around the area, turned out to be good exercise as I trekked about 10 km going there, around the area, and back home.

I took a number of photos of shops with rather interesting names as well as one of good old Colonel Sanders decked out as Samurai Sanders.  Here's one of the used / vintage clothing shops, "Slut", and yep, it's on a corner, like any good slut would be.

Of course, the good Colonel - all decked out in his Samurai gear - is on another corner far away from the Slut.

Why not go and see some of these interesting shops yourself with a few hours spent in Koenji walking around.

Despite the plethora of interesting shops, eateries, and interesting people the thing that struck me the most, though, was the number of shops displaying Help Wanted signs. I lost count, there were so many.

My friend, Michael, wrote of the demise of the shopping streets in San Francisco in his recent blog in Pro Commerce. Michael says that Union Street in San Francisco has died due to the strong opposition to chain stores and bad night-day balance.

Koenji has no major chain stores. But neither do many neighborhood shopping streets in Japan. It does have a decent night-day balance with numerous bars and places to eat at night, and it's known for its music scene as shown in the poster below for this coming weekend's music fest (May 4-6, 2017).

But, if anything is going to kill Koenji, and other shopping areas in Japan, it seems that the lack of people to work in the shops and restaurants will be the ammunition to fill the gun. 

Japan's labor shortage is real. With an unemployment rate of just 2.8% there are at least 1.5 jobs for every applicant. As Japan's population ages and shrinks just what are these shops, restaurants, hotels, and other businesses to do. Read more about this in my article in Majirox News, "Will Japan Become a Nation of Immigrants?"

Now, get your walking shoes on and head on over to Koenji before those shops are gone!

Mummified Hearts

The mountain forest cabin had been deserted for nearly three months when we arrived on a chilly and rainy night. The cabin was cold, but we soon had a blazing flame hissing in the main room's oil heater. 

As the cabin warmed up I toured the rooms to make sure all was ship shape. Imagine my surprise when I saw the desiccated corpse in the bath. 

It had no clothes on even though the bath was dry. Even without clothes its gender was impossible to determine as the cold dry mountain air had shrunk the corpse to a much smaller version of what it had been as a living being. 

I could see nails and hair - gray hair - was it (it because remember, no gender is known) an elder or was gray its natural color. 

Swallowing my own revulsion at this gruesome site I swaddled my own hands in tissue before I lifted the corpse from the bath. 

Holding it in my hands I looked at it again. Was it male? Was it female? I couldn't tell and honestly, I no longer cared.

Was it a mole? Was it a field mouse? Honestly, I didn't care. I just wanted it out of the bath and done away with, which I hastily did. Farewell little mole or field mouse. Rest in peace along with your brother or sister that I found the last time we visited our friends' cabin.

Thus began our weekend in the wonderful land of Kita Karuizawa.

The rain gave way to sunshine on Saturday, which meant we could once again enjoy a BBQ on the deck. Fortunately, the wind was non existent by the time we started our meal and the BBQ threw off enough heat, helped by a glass or two of red wine, to keep us warm. Oh, and the heavy down jackets we wore were mighty welcome too.

Sunday's return trip to Tokyo included a side trip to Kanbara Kannon-Do Temple near Kanbara Village. Kanbara is known as the Asia Pompeii. In 1783 Mt. Asama erupted and lava moved quickly down the mountain's western slope. Although the lava stopped several kilometers away from the village the force of the lava pushing stones and earth ahead of it buried the village and nearly 400 hundred of its inhabitants under 5 to 6 meters of soil and rocks where they have rested for over 230 years. 

Excavation of the village and Temple have turned up human remains as well as numerous artifacts. The artifacts are displayed in a nicely done museum called Tsumagoi Kyodo Shiryoukan.  If you're in the area, which is also close to the well known ski area, Manza, take a bit of time to stop by the museum and visit the small Temple. At the Temple, 7th and 8th generation descendants of those who survived the eruption will welcome you from the hut in front of the Temple, which is there for the maintenance of the Temple. If you speak Japanese feel free to talk to them as you share a cup of tea and bites of pickled cabbage. 

 

Will Japan Become a Nation of Immigrants?

According to Mr. Hidenori Sakanaka, former director of the Tokyo Immigration Bureau and Executive Director of the Japan Immigration Policy Institute, Japan has a thousand year history of being closed to immigrants.

At a press conference held at the Foreign Correspondents Club on May 12, 2016 Sakanaka, who is sometimes called "Mr. Immigration", said that Japan needs to accept at least 10 million immigrants over the next 50 years. Without these immigrants Japan's population will rapidly decrease from the current population of 128 million to less than 87 million by the year 2060, which is not far off from the 83.6 million in the years shortly following WWII. Sakanaka states that such an unprecedented decline will mean that Japan will not be able to sustain itself.

In his book, Japan as a Nation for Immigrants, Sakanaka writes that in half a century the number of people over age 65 will increase from 29 million to 37 million. This group of seniors will then make up 40% of Japan's population.

The population fall-off isn't limited to Japan of course. Many nations are suffering the same fate. China's decades of one child policy means that nation's population will shrink from the current 1.38 billion to 1.34 billion by 2050. Italy will go from 55 million to 43 million.

Meanwhile, the USA is projected to grow from 321 million to 397 million. In fact, a 2008 report by the Pew Research Center projects that the USA's population could grow to as many as 438 million due to immigration with nearly 30% of the future populace being Asian.

Sakanaka wants Japan to become the role model for immigration. Citing Japan's ancient history he recalled how during the Jomon Era (post Stone Age) Japan was a nation of hunter gathers for fifteen thousand years. The country then moved into the Yayoi Era for several hundred years and finally to pre-modern Japan when the nation became one of early government. Mr. Immigration proposed that Japanese should embellish the spirit of Jomon by welcoming immigrants and creating a community of mankind during the next 50 to 100 years.

To accomplish this immigration goal he says Japan needs to develop the legal framework by establishing two cornerstones. The first is to draft immigration laws that will welcome people of all backgrounds. Next, Japan should establish immigration agreements with as many as 100 countries where Japan has friendly diplomatic relations. Sakanaka believes that those countries should commit to sending people to Japan.

He also purports that Japan must abolish its Technical Training System which he says the United Nations has called a form of slavery. This system, which is supposed to help developing countries is, according to some experts, simply a method used to gather cheap unskilled labor for Japanese companies.

Sakanaka commented that since last year the general populace has become more pro-immigration minded. Citing a 2015 poll by the Asahi Newspaper he said that 50% replied positively for immigration while 38% were negative. He compared this to Germany's positive views of immigration of 80%. He continued that a similar poll of the entire nation done by the Yomiuri Newspaper resulted in 38% positive and 62% negative. However, young people in their 20s were 50% for and 49% against opening Japan up to more immigrants. This compares to 10 years ago when the in favor number was near zero percent.

REFUGEES

Sakanaka's stance is that of the 10 million immigrants over the next fifty years 500,000 should be refugees. This compares to only 27 refugees accepted from the 7,586 applicants in 2015. He also believes that Japan should commit to accepting 1,000 Syrian refugees per year, especially those with young children.

Can Sakanaka's dream of a Nation of Immigrants be realized? As he writes in his book, he doesn't know how much he can accomplish during his lifetime, but he will continue to take a leading role in immigration reform. He is sure that unless someone of today's generation lays the groundwork for Japan to become an immigrant nation they will be admonished by future generations as having done nothing to fix the problem. He wants the world to remember him a hundred years from now as "a visionary in Japan who dreamed of creating a global community."

O Chin Chin

  I was surprised today when a couple of Japanese friends told me they've never heard the "chin chin" song.

   Chin Chin is what little boys call their penis. It's like say "wienie" or "pee pee"   for American (and perhaps some European) kids.

   The song came out in 1969. I was in the army and based in Chitose, Hokkaido the first time I heard it. 

  You can hear the song at this link: http://www.uta-net.com/movie/902/
  The words (Japanese and my translation) are below. 

 

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Kodomo no koro no yuki no asa       On a snowy morning when I was a child
Shiroku tsumotta niwa ni dete          The white snow was piled up in my yard
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de        I held my chin chin and
Yuki ni namae wo kaittakke               Wrote my name in the snow

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                 Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Yuuyake sora ga moeteita         The evening sky was glowing from the sunset
Tonbo tsuri shita kaeri michi          Dragonflies were suspended over my path
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de      I held my chin chin and
Hikure no machi ni mizu maita      Peed in the town's water as night fell

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta             Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Natsu no kawahara no mizu no asobi     I played in the water at the river beach
Chicchakku chijinda chin chin wo          My chin chin shrank
Tsumanda nobashite hippatte                 I pulled it to stretch it out
Ohkiku nare to naitta ke                           While crying out, get bigger

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                     Where did that little chin chin go

Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin
Ya Ya Ya Ya Ya
Chin Chin Chin Chin Chin

Kodomo no koro no yuki no asa         On a snowy morning when I was a child
Shiroku tsumotta niwa ni dete            The white snow was piled up in my yard
Chin chin tsumande oshikko de          I held my chin chin and
Yuki ni namae wo kaittakke                 Wrote my name in the snow

O Chin Chin O Chin Chin
Ano chinpoko yo doko itta                     Where did that little chin chin go

There you go - now you know the chin chin song!

 

Spider! Man!

A Japanese superstition says if you see a spider in the morning, it means good luck so you shouldn't kill it.

Guess I'm going to have some Giant Luck today!

Saw this monster on my office steps on the way in this morning. Not sure what it is - just that it is BIG!

Are Japanese Brains Reversed From Western Brains?

An old friend in Tokyo once told me that he is convinced the brains of Japanese are reversed compared to westerners' brains. Thus, the propensity to stand on the left and walk on the right of escalators (except in Osaka where the opposite is true, but Osaka is trying to change it); drive on the left side of the road; read Kanji from right to left (these days though, most is written left to right); pull doors to exit rather than push (fire safety hazard?); and generally walk on the left side of the sidewalk (unless using a smartphone, then like people everywhere they just wander all over the place).

I know that my wife, who is Japanese, almost always hangs up the hair dryer facing to the left while I always hang it on the storage hook facing to the right.

Reversed brains or is it just because I'm left handed and she is right handed.

In an article published in the New York times on Aug. 8, 2000 citing research carried out in the USA, Japan, China, and Korea  researchers determined that Easterners  think more holistically and pay more attention to context and relationship. They rely more on experience-based knowledge rather than abstract logic. They also come across as having more tolerance for contradiction.  The study decided that Westerners think more analytically. Westerners tend to rely more on formal logic.

See the full article at this link. It's an interesting read.

For other articles about Japan see the related posts below.

Related articles

Rikugien - Wow! The People!

Chubby Guys With Blank Eyes

Rikugien - Wow! The People!

We've visited Rikugien in Bunkyo Ward before and thoroughly enjoyed our walk through this serene garden park. With that walk firmly in mind we set out for the 30 minute drive to Bunkyo Ku (Ward) to enjoy this warm and sunny autumn day with a repeat walk and a view of the autumn leaves reflecting in the park's pond.

See this posting in this blog for my past review: Rikugien - The Waka Poetry Garden

Turning the corner the first thing we noticed, to our surprise, was the long line of people stretching more than halfway down the long block from the entrance gate of the park. The line was moving along okay as people paid their entry fee and entered the garden. Since it was moving along we figured we'd go ahead and give it another tour. The next surprise was that the large parking lot we'd used before was now an apartment building. Okay, no worries, let's cruise around and find something in one of the coin parking lots dotting the area. Coin lot number one, full. Moving on to number two, full. And so forth for the next four or five lots we saw. But wait, there's one with a green light indicating an open space. Too late! The car that just turned the corner took that slot. Then, a quick glance to our left, and there was another green sign telling us there's an open spot. Let's grab it! These coin parking lots are often very small and this one was no exception. Only three slots in total and luckily for us slot number 1 was open. Yes! Parking accomplised.

Walking around the corner from the parking lot we decided to grab a bit to eat before crossing the street to the park. Restaurant number one, full. No problem, there are more restaurants along the street. Number two, full. Number three - yep, you guessed it, full and a waiting list of names hanging on the board outside that didn't seem to be diminishing even though other customers were coming out.

Turning back we spotted a table outside the same small bakery where we had eaten in the past so my wife quickly plopped down and claimed the table while I went inside to get some items to eat and drink.

Enjoying our meal we watched the line entering the park and although people continued to go in through the gate the line never seemed to grow shorter as more and more people lined up.

We discussed it and decided that (a) we've been to the park before, (b) the wait would be 20 to 30 minutes to enter, and (c) it was likely to be so crowded in the park, which isn't very big, that walking the park's paths would be like warily weaving our way through Shinjuku Train Station at rush hour (for the unaware Shinjuku Station gets over one million commuters per day). Our conclusion was to scratch the visit to the park and drive through some of the local neighborhoods on our way home since it's a part of Tokyo we don't normally venture through.

Lesson learned: when it's a sunny autumn day, and the leaves are in full autumn dress, don't try to visit one of the most popular parks in Tokyo.  Unless, that is, you just want to sit at a sidewalk table enjoying your pastry, sipping a cup of coffee, and watching the hordes hurry by.

Chubby Guys With Blank Eyes

At the shrines, and in many shops, you’ll see roly-poly dolls with blank eyes (if they are for sale) or one eye painted black (if they are on display and owned by the shop).

These rotund dolls are known as Daruma (Dharma) and are modeled after Bodhidharma, the founder of the Zen sect of Buddhism, who lived during the 5th or 6th century CE.

They are typically red, but there are variations in the color and design depending on the region.

Daruma are most often made of papier-mâché, are round in shape, and are hollow.  They are weighted at the bottom so they always return to an upright position when pushed over.

They are often purchased during the New Year and the buyer paints one eye black while setting a goal, or making a wish for something they want to happen during the coming year such as an increase in business or other good fortune. When the goal is met, or the wish comes true, the other eye is painted black.  The custom of only painting in both eyes was said to have started in order to motivate the Daruma to grant your wish so you promise to give him full sight once the goal is accomplished or the wish comes true.

After New Year's Day people bring last year’s Daruma dolls to the temple where they have been bought. There they are burned in a special ceremony known as Daruma Kuyo. Then, they can buy a new Daruma at the same temple for the current year’s goal or wish.

Daruma come in many sizes from tiny ones that can be used for a key chain or phone charm to big ones that are displayed in the shops and offices.

 

She fell and couldn't get up

 

We were driving along Itsukaichi-kaido (the road that leads to Fussa) today and as we passed by a side road I noticed an elderly lady half sitting, half lying, at the side of that road with a bicycle lying on top of her. I made the first possible U-turn and drove back to the side road. She was still laying there so we stopped to lend assistance and call an ambulance if necessary. She didn't want an ambulance, and she didn't want us to call her house, but she could not get up or stand unassisted. We helped her up and she wasn't even able to move for a few minutes. She was in obvious pain. Eventually we got her into our car and while I drove her home my wife followed on the injured lady's bicycle. Fortunately, Mrs. Kikuchi (the injured lady) was clear of mind and she was able to give me precise directions to her house. We got there and figured out why she didn't want us to call her husband. He was wearing a back brace and unable to lift anything. Between the three of us we managed to get her into her house and seated on the step in the genkan (entry). Her husband said he would call an ambulance because it was clear that she was going to be immobile for a while and he probably wouldn't be able to help her. Hope she let him call that ambulance.

I do wonder, though, how many people may have passed by in their cars, saw her sitting there and didn't stop, or how many passed by on bicycles and just looked at her without stopping to help. The reason I wonder is because Itsukaichi-kaido is a busy road.  And, while we were helping her, at least half a dozen people road their bikes by us. The only thing all of them did was stare until I finally called out to a couple of them to ask if they knew her and if she's from the neighborhood. No one knew her, but one lady I stopped asked if she could help by riding the bike to her house, but my wife was doing that so we were all set on that point.

Mrs. Kikuchi told me she was on the way to tend to her garden and as she got off her bike she somehow fell. We're guessing that she grabbed the bike for support and pulled it over on herself. So, it wasn't a bike "crash" as we first thought, which could have caused more damage, but as it is she was - and is going to be, I imagine - in pain for a while. But, even in pain, she wouldn't let us leave her house without giving us a gift of a box of tea that she had her husband bring from one of the rooms in the house. We didn't get her address or phone number, and they didn't ask for ours, so no way to call later and see if she's okay. Just hope she is.

Golden Week is upon us

Golden Week - that period of many holidays in Japan - is upon us! For some, the long holiday period started on April 29 (Tuesday) and will stretch through Sunday, May 11. A "hearty" few even took April 28th off, giving them 16 days of vacation time with only 7 days of actual vacation days used. Many companies close for part of Golden Week and many for the whole period.

Ask your Japanese friends what the actual holidays are though and chances are many of them won't be able to tell you. They just know that there are four holiday during this period. The actual holidays are:

April 29th - Showa Day
Birthday of the former Emperor.

May 3rd - Constitution Day (Kenpo Kinenbi)
Japan's new post war constitution was put into effect on this day in 1947.

May 4th - Greenery Day (Midori no hi)
Japan has a few of these holidays that are supposedly dedicated to nature (including Umi no hi - ocean day and a new one that will start in 2015 in August, Yama no hi - mountain day).

May 5th - Children's Day (Kodomo no hi)
To honor the children and hope for their health and future success.

This year May 6th is also a holiday since two of the above days fall on a weekend.

It used to be that Tokyo was deserted during GW, but these days the shops are open, trains are still busy, and many people are out and about enjoying the spring weather. Still, traffic is lighter and people are in a holiday mood, so it's a good time to be here in the Big Mikan (as Tokyo is sometimes known).

Traveling around Japan is not quite as much fun during GW. Trains are crowded, tourist spots are jammed, the roads incur massive traffic jams (I've seen jams that are over 30 miles long), and the hotels and onsen (hot springs) increase their prices, assuming you can even get a reservation. Traveling to and from Japan is just as bad. The news reports this year - as every year - tell us of the massive crowds at the airports and on the Shinkansen. And, or course, air fares are usually higher than normal.

So, if you do come to Japan during this period expect nice spring weather, crowds wherever you go, and watch for the festivals around the shrines with their food stalls that will give you a chance to try some of Japan's stall foods like yakisoba (fried noodles), tako-yaki (baked balls of dough with octopus bits), chocolate covered bananas, crepes, grilled sausages, and much more. Spend some time hanging out in Harajuku (see Meiji Shrine) and Yoyogi Park (food stalls, young people in interesting costumes), Shibuya, the Ginza (shop till you drop), or jump on the Chuo or Inokashira train lines and head to Kichijoji and it's great park, Inokashira-koen.

No matter how you enjoy your time in Tokyo have a great Golden Week.

 

Hearts in the Toilet - the Musical Toilet

I have a friend who always used the euphemism, “going to the Toto,” whenever he was headed for the men’s room. He called it that because Toto is one of the most famous toilet and urinal makers in Japan. (Toto is the abbreviation of Tōyō Tōki which means oriental ceramics.)

First time visitors to Japan are sometimes puzzled and confused by the buttons and Japanese only remote controls for Toto’s (or other makers) toilet seats, which some visitors to Japan call super toilets.

The multi-feature toilet seats are commonly known as “washlets” since one of the seat’s main functions is to wash one’s nether regions using the built in bidet function.

What many people, including most Japanese, don’t know is that the forerunner of today’s washlets actually came from the USA. In 1964 the American Bidet Company sent the Wash Air Seat to Japan, which was first produced for hospital patients who, for various reasons, had a hard time using a regular seat and toilet paper. It was a detachable seat with a nozzle that sprayed warm water and blew hot air to dry the user’s bum.

Some people find the seats odd or even uncomfortable. But, trust me, it’s a lot nicer sitting on a warm washlet seat on a frosty morning than it is plopping one’s derriere down on a ring of ice. Most seats allow the user to adjust the seat’s temperature (turn it off in the summer, for example), the water temperature, the spray’s pressure, and some even have a pulse feature for a backside massage.

Tourists visiting Japan, and using washlets for the first time, have been known to grow to like these seats so much that they took one back to their home country. In fact, in the USA, the seats are becoming more readily available in home centers and online as their popularity grows. One thing to keep in mind, if you decide to buy one of these nice-to-have seats, is that all require a nearby electrical outlet. Most western bathrooms don’t have such outlets, but they can be installed as long as safety type outlets are used. These outlets automatically shut off if water gets in them.

If you find you can’t live without a washlet once you’ve gotten used to them in Japan, but you don’t want to install a special electrical outlet, or hook the seat up to your toilet’s water supply, Toto and a few other companies offer a portable version that will also easily fit in your suitcase for those trips away from home.

There are washlets that have so many functions that they are known as intelligent toilets. These toilets include a multitude of features in addition to the regular warm seat, wash, blow dry, and deodorizing. They also include the ability to measure blood sugar in the user’s urine, pressure pads to measure body fat percentage, and weight. The normal washlets are often found in hotels and even public restrooms, but these more sophisticated seats are usually only found in private homes due to the high price.

The pictures in this article show samples of the remote controls typically found near the seat. One photo shows the translation (you may want to save this one). Not all have remotes, in which case the controls will be located at the side of the seat. The video shows how the automatic seat raising function works. This particular one was set for men so both seats raise up when someone stands in front of it. It’s readily adjustable for women too so that only the top seat raises.

 

See a video of The Musical Toilet

 

White Hearts

 

(Photo: our little ceramic village on our patio table)

It's always amazing to those who are from areas of the world where snow is common to see the chaos a bit of snow raises in Tokyo. The city is just totally unprepared to even the smallest amounts of snow. Drivers get confused, trains stop running, shops close early, people stock up (gotta have that toilet paper!), and numerous injuries - even deaths - occur.

Last Saturday (Feb. 8, 2014) though was an exceptionally heavy snow day. Some parts of Tokyo had as much as 10 inches of snow, a 45 year record, and that pretty much brought the city to a standstill. Roads were closed, trains were stopped, and hundreds of flights were cancelled. Over 1,000 we injured in snow and ice related accidents and 7 died. On a positive note, this is the first time I've seen so much cooperative effort to clear the snow from sidewalks and even roads (Tokyo doesn't seem to have any snowplows). I even saw a man in our neighborhood clearing part of the street with a dustpan and a lady in a kimono clearing a path from her house to the main street with a dustpan too. Guess neither of them had shovels.

It's snowing - so far lightly - again today and I've already heard people talking about going home early, and by early I mean 9:30 in the morning - so they don't get stuck in the city if the trains stop running. So far though, the snow is not sticking on most of the streets, and the actually snowfall seems to be pretty light. However, the memories from last Saturday seem to be stuck in everyone's mind and people are overly cautious. It's good to be cautious, but some do go overboard.

(Photo: path cleared with a dustpan)

Washi This

Washi is handmade paper and is typically made from the fibers of one of three types of bushes; gampi, mitsumata, or paper mulberry.

KOZO BARK READY FOR PROCESSING

Washi is actually amazingly tough, even more so than paper made from normal wood pulp. It's used in a variety of items such as Japanese kites, lamp shades, woodblock prints, and even clothing.

The production of washi is similar to regular paper. It's normally made using very cold water to prevent the bacteria that causes decomposition of the fibers. The branches of one of the bushes, kozo (paper mulberry), are most often used to make washi. After boiling the branches, the bark is stripped off, and then boiled in lye to remove the starch. After that the fibers are bleached then beaten. Wet balls of the pulp are placed into a vat of water and a sticky liquid made from the tororo plant.

 

The pulp is lifted from the vat using a special screen. The screen is dipped into the water several times until enough of it is spread across the screen to make a sheet of paper. Each sheet is stacked on top of the others to form a thick pile. The tororo liquid has special properties to keep the sheets from sticking together. Each sheet is then separated and spread on a dryer to complete the process.

If you'd like to try your hand at making washi a good place to do so is in Washi-no-Sato (washi village) in Higashichichibu in Saitama. See their English website for information and directions.

If you want to buy washi products in Tokyo there are many shops selling them. One good place is Isetatsu. They have some beautiful washi, nice papier-mâché articles, furoshiki (large wrapping cloths) that can be tied into handbags, and framed artwork. All would make a nice gift or reminder of Japan. To read more about the area where Isetatsu is located see my article on DeepJapan.

See the video for a live demo of a craftsman at Washi-no-Sato making a sheet of washi.

 

Lotus Hearts

Despite the cloudy skies we decided to take a drive to Tsuchiura yesterday - why not - never been there. Only about 75 km to the northeast of our side of Tokyo, Tsuchiura City turned out to be not so interesting, but we didn't actually cruise the whole town.

We were more interested in seeing Lake Kasumigaura, which is Japan's second largest lake. Originally a brackish lagoon it was enlarged when a water gate was constructed at the confluence of the Hitachi and Tone rivers. This decreased the salinity and it's now a fresh water lake that's very popular with fishermen and is well used for various water sports. There are also several marinas around the lake and we saw a number of sailboats on the water.

As we drove around the lake we were suprised to see field after field (actually pond after pond) of long stemmed, very large leafed plants. At first we thought they were "fuki" (a sort of Japanese rhubarb), but we finally figured out that they were lotus plants. It turns out that this area is one of the two largest (maybe the largest) lotus root producing areas in Japan (the other is in Kyushu). 

We were amazed at the number of lotus ponds - as far as the eye could see - with a few pink or white blossoms. We later learned that July is the best month to visit when the plants are all blooming and the ponds are covered in the lovely lotus blossoms. We plan to go in July next year and see for ourselves. 

You may have eaten lotus root - in fact, most certainly if you've been to a Chinese restaurant. It's round with several holes and usually quite crunchy. 

You've also probably seen the flower pods which are often dried and used in floral arrangements. Here's one I photographed to show you what they look like.

Lake Kasumigaura is also known for the "Hobikibune." These are the sailed fishing boats that have been used for centuries. We saw one in the small museum, which is housed in a castle structure, on the east shore of the lake (yes, it's worth 45 minutes of your time to tour this and the price is right, only 210 yen). We were quite surprised at the very large size of the sail when compared to the boat, which is only a few meters long and not much more than a meter wide. The fishing nets are attached to lines that run from the boat. As the wind blows the boat along the net scoops in the fish. 

 

Traffic Criminal at Heart?

When you get this postcard in the mail it's time to renew your driver's license in Japan. According to the card it's possible to renew one month before, or up to one month after, your birthday.

I elected to go on my birthday so postcard and current license in hand off I went to the nearest renewal location; in my case, Shinjuku City Hall.

Alas! It was not to be that easy. Upon arrival the friendly - nay, even gleeful - lady at the renewal counter told me, "Oh - you're a traffic violator (the words in Japanese can even be translated to mean traffic criminal). You can't renew here. You've got to go to the special renewal center." Of course, that special renewal center turns out to be way over on the far east side of Tokyoy in one of the city's oldest government buildings. No shiny new city hall building for us traffic criminals!

Keep in mind now, my violation was 2 years ago. And, I went through the all day special re-education program (wiped the points off my license, cut my license supsenson from 30 days to 1 day), and paid my $600 fine (I was 32 km over the limit). But, never mind all that, I'm still a vile violator apparently.

Actually, the entire process of renewing your license in Japan is quite well organized. Pretty much an assembly line process. Enter the building, go to the line of machines and select two PIN numbers (can be the same, or two different numbers).  Don't lose, or forget, these numbers. You'll need them later and you'll need them if you're ever stopped for a traffic violation.  Show the clerk at the window your little piece of paper with your PIN numbers and get another slip of paper with a different number and a document to complete with your name, address, and date of birth (oh, and by the way, this is all in Japanese). Proceed to the cashier's window, pay the renewal fee. Move on to the next booth and have your eyes tested (tell the examiner which side of the circle has the open space, "ue (up), shita (down), migi (right), hidari (left). On you go to the next window where you hand in your completed form and your current license, which gets a hole punched in it - now it's no longer valid - and a slip of paper verifying you've done all this - check it to make sure the info is correct.  Head on to the classroom (2 hours if you're a violator) and don't forget to pick up the envelop with the two books of traffic signs and regulations on the way.  Listen to the lecture, watch the video, try not to snore like the guy behind me was doing. 

Education finished - one more line to stand in - upstairs again, in the case of the location I went to. Get your license and off you go; well, almost.  FIrst you have to lay the new license on a special license reader and - remember, I told you not to forget those PIN numbers? - punch in the two PIN numbers to verify and activate your license.  Okay, now you can leave the building, Elvis. 

If you're renewing with a clean record the whole process takes about an hour. Ticket in your history? Plan on about 2.5 hours.  

Oh, and by the way, I'll get to go through it again in 3 years (hopefully, the short version) since I lost my gold license (only non-traffic criminals get those gold licenses!) and I'm now holding a blue license. Of course, loss of the gold license also means loss of some of my car insurance discount next year at renewal time. 

Yep - they sure now how to make it as painful as possible for us traffic criminals!

 

Cheesy Peaceful Hearts

In a very small survey (okay, it was just one question) I did on Facebook, I wondered why nearly 100% of the population in Japan holds up one - or sometimes both - hand(s) in the "peace" sign when having their photo taken.

One FB Friend said it was started by the camera makers many years ago. So, I did a wee bit of Internet research and found out that yes, Konica perpetrated it, but it also may be a holdover from the American hippies of the 60s / 70s era.

The practice seems to have spread to other Asian countries too it seems.

In the west, we say cheese, but in Japan you are as likely to hear someone say "peace" when being photographed and the photographer will often say "cheeeezu!"

You can see why people say cheese in a Wikipedia artile - basically, it's because taking a bit of cheese is supposed to resemble a smile.

But, ask most any Japanese why they make the peace sign and all you're likely to get is a puzzled look - because they don't know either.

Should hikers be charged to climb Mt. Fuji?

 

On June 22nd Mt. Fuji was designated as a World Heritage Site by the World Heritage Committee of UNESCO.

Mt. Fuji was designated a “cultural” rather than “natural” site and registered under the title “Mt. Fuji: Object of Worship, Wellspring of Art.”

Per Wikipedia, a Cultural World Heritage Site represents a masterpiece of human creative genius; to exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design.

A Natural World Heritage Site is something occurring in nature that are natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance; outstanding examples representing major stages of earth's history, including the record of life, significant on-going geological processes in the development of landforms and features.

In the past, residents and officials had attempted to register Mount Fuji as a natural World Heritage site, but were turned down due to illegal dumping of garbage and the fact that the mountain actually lacks any global uniqueness as a volcanic mountain (from a TV show we watched last night, there are several volcanos around the world that actually look quite a bit like Fuji).

In 2012, Japan formally asked UNESCO to add Mount Fuji to the list of cultural World Heritage sites in consideration of its religious significance and repeated depictions in works of art.

Local area mayors are now proposing a fee to cover the costs of clean-up, as well as to keep the number of climbers at a reasonable level, with various fees proposed: 1,000 yen to 10,000 yen.

I've asked a few Japanese, as well as foreigners living in Japan, if they agree that a fee should be charged. I've heard both 'yeas' and 'nays' with they yeas saying the money should be used for clean-up or to defray some of the costs for rescue missions undertaken for those who are injured (and some even fall to their death on Fuji). Others felt that it's a national icon and as such people should be able to enjoy it freely.

Personally, I've never climbed Mt. Fuji nor had any serious desire to do so. I've been up to the fifth station, I've driven all around it, I've admired it from afar, but the reality is, up close, it's just a big dark mountain with no real beauty (remember, I said from up close - from a distance, it's a majestic mountain and I always enjoy seeing it, especially covered in snow).

So - what do you think - hikers should be or should not be charged? If yes, how much is appropriate? 1,000 yen ($10)? 10,000 yen ($100)

The Waka Poetry Garden - Rikugien

             Crossing the Togetsukyo

Rikugien is a very nice garden for walking the park paths, up the gentle hills, and around the pond while taking in the sights and sounds of this park within the confines of a busy city.

The garden was created based on the theme of Waka poetry. It's a typical example of the gardens of the Edo period.

Donated to the city by the family of the founder of Mitsubishi, Iwasaki Yataro in 1953, the garden was designated as a special site of exceptional beautry and is an important cultural asset.

                   Rhododendrons in Bloom

Getting to the garden is quite easy. Take the JR Yamanote Line, or the Namboku Subway Line to Komagome Station. Or, take the Toei Mita Line to Sengoku Station. Both stations are just a few minutes walk from the garden.

Entry is 300 yen for adults, 150 yen for those 65 and over, and free for primary school chilren or younger and junior high students living or attending school in Tokyo. The garden is open from 9:00 - 17:00 daily (closed Dec. 29 - Jan. 1), but the last entry is at 16:30.

                     Tsutsuji-no-chaya

Spring Hearts

In the USA, where I hail from, the sight of a red-red robin (comes bob-bob bobbin' along) heralds the start of spring.

Although Japan has robins - known as "komadori" - most people don't associate the sighting of one as the beginning of spring. In fact, most probably wouldn't know what a komadori looks like. (Photo below for those of us who don't.)

                    Komadori

For the Japanese, and most foreigners who have been here any length of time, spring starts in Japan when the sakura (cherry) trees start to blossom. Actually, the plum trees bloom 2 to 4 weeks before the sakura, but to me those are the pre-spring blossoms. Lovely pink and white plum flowers to get our thoughts turning to spring.

         Japanese Plum Blossom

At our Toastmasters meeting this week, when asked what brings spring to mind for them, most all the participants, Japanese and non-Japanese alike said it's when the sakura trees bloom. Now that the flowers are opening up we can expect to see hordes of people in almost any location where there is a sakura tree or three. People will be clustered under the trees, sitting on blue ground tarps, enjoying snacks, sake, wine, beer, or any other of their favorite liquid refreshments for an afternoon or evening of "hanami" - viewing the flowers. Of course, there will be a little flower viewing done, but by the time the evening is over most of the viewing will be at ground level since sake heavy heads are pretty hard to lift up to where the actual flowers are. 

           Hanami along the river

So, if you're one of the hanami party goers - enjoy - and kampai!

How much for a funeral wake

Yesterday I received a fax (fax versus email in Japan -I'll save that for another post) telling me that a long time friend's mother had passed away. The wake service was being held that same night. He has been a friend for almost 30 years so of course I was going to the wake.

Then, my quandary started. The custom in Japan is to place some money into a special envelope that can be bought at any stationary store or even a convenience mart. This money is then given to someone at the reception area of the wake. I'm never sure what the proper amount of money is. Should I give ¥10,000? 20,000? 30,000?

I contacted a couple of Japanese friends to ask the amount. One thing I learned quickly is, definitely not 20,000. In Japan, for a funeral gift, you don't give even numbers so my choice was either ¥10,000 or ¥30,000 or more of course if I wanted. Since I know that for this particular family money is not an issue I felt that ¥30,000 would be a bit over-the-top. I settled on 10,000 yen.

This particular wake was held at one of the large temples in Tokyo. When I arrived there the process was to register my name and then hand over the envelope. Once that was completed I took my place in line waiting for my turn to go into the ceremony hall to burn some incense and offer a prayer for the soul of the departed.

The next step is to turn to the seated family members and bow. Then, as I departed the ceremony hall the process was to bow to the sons and daughters in law. What was a bit surprising was that everybody bows, but nobody offers words of condolence to the family. Everything is done in silence other than the chanting of the Buddhist monks.

I have attended several funerals in Japan, but this one was a little different as the family is a pretty well-known business family so the number of people attending was well over a hundred. The actual funeral service will be held today and I would imagine there will be another hundred or more people attending that.

Just another aspect of living in Japan.

Take a Day Tour of Yanaka (Tokyo)

The Yanaka area of Tokyo (in Taito Ward) is a wonderful
place for a day's outing. Start at the south exit of Nippori Station (Yamanote
line). Exit the station, turn left, at the end of the walk take the steps to
your left up to Tennoji Temple. It was founded over 500 years ago, but was
destroyed in 1868 in the battle between Tokugawa loyalists and the Imperial
forces. It's been rebuilt and the current temple grounds are peaceful and nice
to see. Upon entering you'll see the temple's main treasure, the bronze Buddha,
which dates from 1690.

Leave the temple and walk straight ahead to Yanaka cemetery
where many famous people are interred. Just before the koban (police box) look
to your left and you'll see the site of the foundation of a former five story
pagoda. It was burned down by two lovers in 1957 just before they committed
suicide.

At the koban take a right turn and walk to the end of the
street. There you'll see a plaque (in English and Japanese) dedicated to Kano
Hogai (1828-1888) who was a painter during the early Meiji period. The entrance
to Choanji Temple is behind this plaque. Kano's tomb is in this the temple's
cemetery. The temple is noted for three stone stupas dating from the 13th
century. These were erected for the repose of departed souls. You'll see the
stupas, each in a different shape, next to the small Buddhist statures.

Leaving Choanji turn left. There's a shop in an old house
across the street selling Estonian goods if you're looking for some unusual souvenirs.
Take a left at the first street (just a few meters from Chonaji's gate) and
walk along a few meters to see the Edo era temple wall. Turn around, come back
to the main road, and turn left.

This will lead you to Kannonji Temple. The head priest of
this temple was the brother of two of the 47 ronin, the master less samurai who
avenged their master's death and then committed seppuku (ritual suicide) in
1702. Their story became a popular kabuki play.

Walking on along this street there are a couple of places to
eat - take your pick of Italian, curry, or otherwise if you're hungry - or wait
a bit for a wider choice of menus. You'll also see the small crafts shop,
Sandara, on the right side of the street. Another shopping opportunity!

Just past Sandara you'll find Asakura Choso Museum, although
as of early November 2012 it's closed for renovations. It was built in 1936 as
the home and studio for Asakura Fumio, a Western style sculptor known for
creating realistic statues. Continue on along the street then take the next
left (right takes you back to Nippori Station). At the "Y" take the
right street and go down the steps to Yanaka Ginza, which is an old fashioned
shopping street filled with dozens of small shops, places to eat, and snack stands
selling "kurokke" (meat and potato deep fried croquets), which you
can buy to nibble on as you walk along.

Before entering Yanaka Ginza, to the right of the
overhead steel beam arch, stop in Midori-Ya to see the finely made bamboo
baskets (and other goods) that are crafted by Suigetsu Buseki. Not for the
faint-of-wallet these baskets fetch a handsome price, but they are truly works
of art.

At the end of the street take a left. As you walk along look
for the sign for the 10 yen manju (bean paste cakes) shop. It's on the left
side of the street. You'll see a white sign with 10 yen and more Japanese on it
and there'll be a couple of red cloth covered benches in front of the shop. Buy
a pack of 10 manju for 105 yen (must pay that 5 yen tax), have a free cup of
green tea (hot or cold), and sit on one of the benches to rest, drink your tea,
and enjoy the sweet manju.

Leaving this shop continue along the street to the traffic light.
A bit before this light look to your left where you'll see the billboard for
the puppet shop. Turn left and walk to the end of the short street and go on in
to see these fabulous handmade puppets. If there are at least three people who
are willing to pay 500 yen each the shop staff will put on a 30 minute puppet
show for you. You can also order a custom made hand puppet that looks like you.
They cost 30,000 yen and the current waiting time (as of November 2012) is
about two months.

Exit the puppet shop and come back out to the street and
turn left, where you'll see the restaurant Oshimaya at the corner by the
traffic light. It's on the 2nd floor (up the steps) about an open garage. Here you
can have a delicious lunch of soba (buckwheat noodles), udon (flour noodles),
oyako-don (chicken and egg rice bowl), or tempura. A cold beer goes down nicely
too after all that walking.

If you take a right at the stoplight you'll see the sembei
(Japanese rice crackers) shop call Kikumi Sembei. Even if you don't want any
sembei it's worth having a look to see and photograph the 135 year old wooden
building. If you're tired keep going past the sembei shop where you'll find
Sendagi Station.

Otherwise, turn around and head up the slight hill. On your
right you'll see the washi (Japanese handmade paper) shop, Isetatsu. They have
some beautiful paper, nice papier-mâché articles, furoshiki (large wrapping
cloths) that can be tied into handbags, and framed artwork.  All would make a nice gift or reminder of
Japan.

Continue on up the incline and across from the elementary school
is another temple, Daienji. It's rare in that it houses both a Buddhist temple
and a Shinto shrine under one roof. It also hosts a chrysanthemum fair during
that flower's blooming season.

Leaving Daienji, cross at the crosswalk in front of the
school, turn left and take your first right (just beside the school). At the
end of this street turn left and a couple of minutes later you'll come to the Daimyo
Clock Museum (entry 300 yen). If you like old clocks, and want to see some that
show how time was monitored in ancient Japan, have a look in this one-room
museum.

Leaving the museum's overgrown garden, turn right, then left
on the street you just walked along. Look for the oddly shaped pine tree on the
corner and turn left to go down the hill. Before you get to the traffic light
look for Imojin Owariya on a corner (left side). Stop by and enjoy a treat of
their homemade ice cream (140 yen for a cone at the take-away window). You
should be able to see them making bean paste cakes in the window. Carry on through
the traffic light to Nezu Shrine on your right. Here you'll find brightly
colored orange torii, ancient cedar trees. It also has thousands of azalea
bushes and when they bloom in April the crowds are tremendous.

Leave the shrine by the gate to your left where you'll see the orange colored torii. Climb the
steps and turn right to walk under the torii (mind your head). At the end of
this short stroll turn right, down the hill, to the T-junction. Turn left and walk
450 meters to Nezu station to catch the Chiyoda subway line to end your Yanaka
tour and take you to your next destination.

Suspended Hearts at Lake Miyagase

Lake Miyagase, a man-made lake located in Kanagawa Prefecture, is one of the reservoirs serving Tokyo and Yokohama. Nestled in the Tanzawa mountain range it's a short drive from Tokyo via the Chuo Expressway (exit at Sagamikohigashi).

On the west side of the lake (on Route 64) there is a visitor's center. This center has several restaurants and souvenir shops and parking is 300 yen for the day. If you eat at one of the restaurants check to see if they have parking coupons available. Some do, making your parking free.

In the visitors' center you can get a map of the area (Japanese only) and they also have maps of the various hiking trails around the lake. They had a large map on the wall showing the various bear sightings that have occurred this summer. If you plan to hike make sure you're well prepared and have the proper equipment and a bear bell to make noise to, hopefully, scare away the bears. These may be low elevations mounts (around 750 meters), but they are still mountains, densely forested, and trails can be treacherous even on the lower mountains.

The lake is behind the shops. Walk down the 120 steps to the large open grassy area. This is a good place for the kids to run around, play frisbee, or fly kites. Dogs are welcome, but they have to be kept on a leash and they're not allowed into the grassy park area.

 

From the steps you'll have a great view of the 315 meter long pedestrian only suspension bridge. From the play area walk along the small river where you can even wade in the cool waters. Small kids seem to have a great time playing in the crystal clear water.  Following the path you'll come to a canoe (kayaks, actually) rental center, but it was closed the day we were there. On the other side of the stream there is a BBQ area where you can rent all the equipment and they even supply the food if you want to have a family picnic.

Walk along the short boardwalk over the small marsh area where you'll see ducks. Follow the road around to the other side of the lake, up the ramp, and onto the suspension bridge for a walk back to the park. Along the way you will likely see the boat that cruises the lake. Take a cruise if you want or ride the min-train (no track, rubber wheels) that goes around the complex.

 

After your walk around the area head back up the steps and enjoy a nice cold cup of kaki-gori (shaved ice) or a refreshing soft cream ice cream cone.

 If you go during the Christmas season you can enjoy the Christmas light-up. A 30 meter tall fir tree is festooned with 10,000+ lights and there is a Christmas lights arch. Other trees around the park are also decorated.  

Getting there:

By train and bus: Take the Odakyu Line to Hon-Atsugi Station. Then, take a Kanagawa Chuo bus to Lake Miyagase. The bus ride takes approximately one hour.

By car: There are a number of ways to get there, but this is the easiest: Take the Chuo Highway to the Sagamiko Interchange. From there, turn left onto Route 20, then right at Sagamiko Station -  make your way to route 412 and head west.

You can find a map (Japanese only) at this site: Lake Miyagase Access Map

I recommend plugging in the phone number for the park into your car navigation system - this should lead you to the visitor center area.

 

 

Average Hearts in Japan vs. World Averages

Are you average?

What, exactly, is the meaning of average?

According to Collins English Dictionary it means, the typical or normal amount, quality, degree” of something.

But, averages vary from country to country. And, since we live in Japan, I researched some Japan averages versus some western averages.

Since the thing we observe most every day is other people let’s look at some comparisons of averages for humans.

As an American, I’ll make most of the comparisons between Americans and Japanese, but I’ll throw in a few European and other Asian averages just to keep things balanced.

According to the US National Center for Health Statistics, the average American male is 5’ 9” (175 cm.) tall and the average weight is 190 pounds, or about 86 kilos. This isn’t to say that’s a healthy weight, it is just the current average. Of course, the older one is, the more one can weigh and still be considered in the healthy range. For example, in my age group, about 81 kilos is considered a healthy
limit. But then again, this is for someone 175 cm tall. So, in my case, I can either lose a couple of kilos or I can grow another 5 centimeters taller. 

For American women, who average 164 cm, the average weight is about 59 kilos. 

In Japan, men average about 171 cm in height and weigh 62 kg.  Japanese women average 159 cm tall and weigh 43 kg.

Diet, of course explains a lot of the difference in averages, but as we all know, thanks to places like MacDonald’s and other fast food, Japan is slowly catching up to America. Eating all that fast food may soon cut into the average Japanese life span, which according to the CIA World Factbook’s 2011 estimates is an overall 82 years - that’s 79 for men and almost 86 for women.  That beats the US’s average of 78 overall (and 76 for men, 81 for women). But, it falls behind a few countries like Monaco where the overall average is close to 90. 

According to the USDA, Americans eat 38 kg of beef each every year. Japanese eat about 14 kg.  But the worldwide champions of beef consumption are the Argentineans at 56 kilos and central Europeans manage to consume about 13 kilos each.

On the other hand, says the National Maritime Fisheries Service, Japanese eat much more seafood. The average Japanese goes through 27 kg of fish and shellfish each year compared to only about 24 kg per American. And those beef eating Argentineans I mentioned earlier?  Only 8 kg per person.  

So, how do the people of the world get out and about to buy that beef or their daily serving of fish?
Well, in the USA many will use their cars. Of course, that’s also true in Japan if one lives in the countryside rather than a major city like Tokyo or Osaka.  According to data compiled by the Japan Automobile Inspection & Registration Information Association the average home in Japan has 1.09 cars. A study done by Experian showed that the average number in America is 2.3 cars per home with 35% of households having 3 or more cars. The Aussies run a close second though with 1.7 cars per
household.

So if you’re an average Japanese you’re going to eat twice as much fish as you do beef. You’ll only get to drive a car sometimes because someone else in your home may get the keys first, but on a positive note you’ll live to a ripe old age which, by the way, gives you more time to eat ice cream because the average Japanese only eats less than 1/10th of a liter per year compared to the average American and Australian who eat almost 14 liters per year.

The Wheels of Justice

An autumn day, a long straight road in Hokkaido, not another car in sight and off we went!  With my
rental car's wheels eating up the road at 625 revolutions per kilometer I was zipping down the highway on the way to Niseko. Whoa! What was that red flash? Uh-oh! The infra-red camera on the overhead stanchion just took my picture.  And a pretty clear picture - good likeness - it was as I eventually found out.

Those 625 revolutions per minute turned out to be 92 kilometers per hour on a highway with a posted speed of 50 km per hour. Now, the police do have some allowance for lead footed drivers, but it turns out that allowance is only 10 km. Which means I was 32 km over the "allowable" amount. And so the saga begins. 

A few weeks after returning to Tokyo from that September drive I got a phone call from a friendly policeman (everyone was friendly throughout this whole process) in Hokkaido informing me he had a picture of me, my rented car, and a little odometer in the corner of the picture showing 92 km
per hour. We talked for about 30 minutes (in Japanese since he spoke no English) and what could I do but admit that yep, it was me, and yep, I saw the red light flash, and yep, I guess I was speeding. I told him why - figured he needed something to talk to the other cops about the rest of the day.  Okay, he said and told me that the next step would be a notice in the mail and a visit to my neighborhood police headquarters since I had no plans to be back in Hokkaido in the near future.

So, a couple of months later, in November, I got that postcard and off to Takaido police station I went (after making an appointment, of course). I had a nice "chat" with the traffic officer there and he
kindly wrote out my statement for me, which he then read back to me, and I put my "hanko" on it to approve it.  Yeah, that sure was a pretty clear picture of me and my wife in that little car.

 A couple of months later, in February, I got a post card that this level of law-breaking activity (remember, I was 32 km over the allowable limit) meant 6 points against my license and a 30 day suspension of my license (no mention of the fine yet). The post card was in Japanese, but they had a
sentence in red (in Japanese of course) that said "If you don't understand Japanese bring your own interpreter."  Okay, so if you don't read Japanese how are you supposed to know about that?  Hello, does the word "logic" mean anything to anyone out there?  

Anyhow, the card said I could spend the day in the Chofu driver's license center, taking a "remedial" course, for which I had the honor to fork out 13,800 yen. Taking, and passing, the course meant I could probably erase the points and cut the license suspension down to one day. Off I went early in the morning to be there in time for the 08:30 registration start (no car allowed that day!). As I walked up to the window to register I was immediately pulled aside, in a friendly manner, and asked if I understand Japanese since the whole day's course would be only in Japanese.  Assuring them I did I was next asked if I read Japanese because there was a 40 questions test at the end of the day and
the time limit for that was only 30 minutes. Well, yes, I do read some Japanese, but I told them I reckon it isn't good enough to ensure that I could get through all 40 questions in the time allowed, so we both really h'mmed and hawed about that. With a look of great consternation on his face the official took me up a floor where I was asked the same question and gave the same answer. After much sucking of air the other official asked if I read English.  Assuring him that I do he said that's good because they also have the test in English (as it turns out they gave me both the English and the Japanese copy during the test - good thing they did because I had to refer to the Japanese for a handful of the questions in order to understand the "English"). 

Just in case you ever have to do this here is what the one day course consists of: 

1. Morning:  lectures on the driving rules and regulations. Listen carefully because they will
actually be telling you the questions and answers to that test you'll be taking later. 

2. Lunch break. There's a cafeteria downstairs in the basement. 

3. After lunch: more lecture, more hints for the test. 

4. Driving around the course taking turns with your fellow traffic criminals and an examiner (when you get to the fake railroad crossing make sure you stop, open both front windows, and state that you are listening for the train - because that first train in the morning just might zip through without
tripping the signal).  Then a few minutes on the simulator, which is actually harder than real driving! 

5. Written test. 

6. Movie time - watch what traffic law disobedience can cause.  

7. Test results. Assuming you've passed (I did, scored 100) you will be told that the points have been erased and you can drive again after midnight.  But, for the next one year, if you accumulate 4 points you'll get to do this all over again - but for two days! 

8. Down to the window, pick up your license, go home. 

So, you thought it was all over?  Oh... no...! Not yet! 

Next comes a postcard (about a week or so later) telling you to go to the Prosecutor's Office where you'll spend another hour or two restating the facts of your crime. Here, at least, if you don't speak Japanese they will provide an interpreter.  The prosecutor inputs your statement into the computer, prints out a copy, and you hanko it (or sign it if you don't have a hanko).  You are then given a choice of going to court and arguing your case (good luck with that!) or saying no thanks, just send me the fine. 

A couple more weeks go buy and you'll get a registered letter telling you how much your fine is. In my case, first offense, stated guilty as charged, it is 60,000 yen (cost to date, 73,800 + train fares, so
about $1,000).  Oh, you do get the option of paying the fine or working it off in some sort of community work (somebody's gotta pick up all that trash the "nature lovers" in Japan toss out of
their car windows) at the rate of 5,000 yen per day. The prosecutor assured me that if I decided to do this it wouldn't be like the movies with a chain around my leg swinging a big hammer and breaking rocks! 

So that's the end of it, right?  Wrong! That's just the letter telling me what the fine is and a note in it (in Japanese, of course) telling me that I'll get another letter telling me how to go about paying my fine.  Oh boy! I can hardly wait!  But, meanwhile, you can bet I'll lighten up the old lead foot and stop for those red lights!

 

 

Hina Matsuri (Dolls Day Festival)



Today, March 3rd, is Girls' Day in Japan. It's also called Hina Matsuri (Doll Festival).

Those who have sets of Hina Dolls display them in their homes on a platforms - in steps - and the steps are covered with a red cloth. The dolls are called hina-ningyoh.   They represent the Emporer, the Emporess, and their attendants. The dolls are typically dressed in traditional royal court dress replicant of Japan's Heian period, which is when the practice of displaying these dolls started.

In those days people believed the dolls possessed the power to protect against bad spirits.

The stores in Tokyo were quite crowded today as people went about buying some of the traditional foods and snacks served on this day. For example, colored hina arare, which are small crackers flavored with sugar or soy sauce and and hishimochi, a diamond-shaped colored rice cake.  People also eat Chirashizushi (sushi rice flavored with sugar, vinegar, and topped with raw fish and other ingredients).

A soup called ushiojiru containing hamaguri (clams) in the shell is also served. Clam shells in food are deemed the symbol of a united and peaceful couple, because a pair of clam shells fits perfectly, and no pair but the original pair can do so.

Families generally start to display the dolls in February and take them down immediately after the festival. A Japanese superstition says that leaving the dolls on display past March 4 will result in a late marriage for daughters in the family.

This day is also called momo no sekku (Peach Festival)" because of the peach blossom season on the old lunar calendar. In fact, I bought branches of peach blossoms for my wife today so we can display them in our home.

When our girls were small, and living at home, my wife and our daughters would enjoy taking the dolls from their storage boxes each year and arranging them on their special stand. My wife still displays the dolls, but in a smaller fashion, as well as decorating with the peach blossom branches.

You can buy your own set of hina dolls in most department stores in Japan or in any of the stores that specialize in ningyo (dolls). A traditional set of dolls can be very expensive. There are various grades for the sets, and some full sets will set you back a pretty yen as they cost more than a million yen (US$12,000). Of course, there are much cheaper sets, and even some made of paper, but those won't - naturally - last very long. And, you can buy a royal couple only version, with only the Emperor and the Empress dolls.

Of course, the boys have their day too. Well, at least it used to be called boys' day, but not it has become children's day - that's coming up May 5th. I'll write more about that when the time comes.

Meanwhile - happy Dolls Day! And, here is a picture of a full 7 tiered set of the dolls.

 

Those Setsubun Beans

With freezing temperatures in Tokyo, and even some snow just a few days ago, it's hard to believe that the first day of spring is just around the corner.

But, February 3 is Setsubun (seasonal division). In its association with Chinese New Year (Lunar New Year) Setsubun used to be thought of as a type of New Year's eve.  This was accompanied by a special ritual to cleanse away all the evil - clean out the bad spirits of the old year -  and drive away disease-bringing bad spirits for the new year

This special ritual is called mamemaki, which means bean throwing (maki can also mean scatter or plant, but in this case the beans are thrown). 

If you want to keep it really traditional the bean throwing should be performed by the toshiotoko of the house. The toshiotoko is the male who was born on the corresponding animal year on the Chinese Zodiac (this year is the year of the dragon), or if there is no toshiotoko the male head of the household can throw the beans. The best beans to use are roasted soybeans, known as "fortune beans (fuku mame). These can be purchased in many stores. The beans are usually thrown out the door, but they may also be thrown at a member of the family wearing a  demon mask (also available in a variety of stores, temples, or shrines), while the people throwing the beans say "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa Uchi!" (Demons out! Good luck in!)

 [Oni (Demon) Mask]

The beans are supposed to do a purification of the home by driving away the demons (the evil spirits) that bring bad luck and bad health. After throwing the beans many people eat roasted soy beans; one for each year of one's life, and one more for bringing good luck for the new year.

Some shrines and temples will have Setsubun ceremonies too where priests and special guests will throw roasted soy beans (some may even be wrapped in gold or silver foil), or small envelopes with money, candies and other small prizes. Some of the bigger shrines might invite celebrities and/or sumo wrestlers. Check a shrine or temple near you to see if any Setsubun ceremony is going on - it's another good Japan photo opportunity.

 

Western Holidays in Japan

Japan has 15 national holidays per year. This compares to 10 in the USA and France and 16 in India. In addition to national holidays many companies in Japan close for several more days during Oshogatsu (New Year) and Obon (in July).

Very few of these Japanese national holidays serve any commercial purpose with the exception of sales for travel agencies during Golden Week (April - May), osetchi ryori (traditional New Year's food) sales during the new year, beauty salons for coming of age day, and perhaps some presents for  children on children's day.  

On the other hand, adoption of western holidays seems to be solely meant to open the purse strings of Mrs. Suzuki and all her family and relatives.  Christmas, one of the west's most holy holidays is not much more than a season to sell cakes, toys, and other presents here in Japan (of course, it's exploited for pretty much the same reasons in the west).  

When we lived in Japan in the 1980s the only Halloween costumes we saw were on the American children in our neighborhood who went to school parties, or to a few home parties, and maybe a bit of door-to-door Trick or Treating in the neighborhoods with high foreigner populations.  That has certainly changed! Now, even driving out in the countryside I have seen pumpkins carved with various designs  - some typical, some not. There are even costume parades in many areas and of course, many bars take advantage of the "holiday" to hold costume parties and offer special Halloween drinks.

I asked a few friends - Japanese and foreigners - what they think of this growing trend of adopting foreign holidays in Japan.  Below are the responses (J = Japanese; F = Foreigner):

F:  most Western holiday celebrations here are simply the fondest dreams of merchants coming true. Valentine's Day,  Halloween and Christmas are great opportunities for any company that deals in romance, confections or toys to suck in some major cash. 

F: Christmas that starts in November, Santa dressed in blue, yucky cream sponge cakes, and celebrating in bars on Christmas "ibu," [eve] work as usual December 25, Christmas dinner with sushi on the table - these are the only times I've ever felt homesick in Japan. I sometimes wonder how the Japanese would feel if we all suddenly started doing Bon-odori in gaudy yukata wearing shoes and socks and with a brass band thrown in Times Square or Piccadilly Circus. All put together by commercial interests of course!

J: Halloween has become a profitable business for bars and pubs. The Halloween party is now adopted as a seasonal event in bar businesses.  St. Valentine's day brought profit to chocolate makers and it seems that there are businesses behind the newly introduced holidays. Since the mid-80’s, the Affiliation of Book Stores Union is attempting to promote Saint George's Day in April as a day for presenting books to loved ones. It seems they have been unsuccessful though.  I wonder what holidays we Japanese will be “adopting” next.  

J: I read in a book that few holidays tap into the American psyche so closely as Halloween. I cannot understand why this is so. My guess is that the spirits of ancestors of both immigrants from abroad and native Indians might all be there to act on inhabitants to celebrate the unity of all people.

J: Personally it is OK with me.  Japanese have always been a very flexible people. And the advertisers and merchants want to take advantage of any reason to make a special day to sell special items. So I expect that there will be more and more. They may introduce, Chinese new year plus The Songkran of Thailand, Mahatma Gandhi Day? Ramadan? Who knows?

F: I don't mind.  The more the merrier.  I just wish that those adopting someone else's holidays also try to understand the origins and rationale for those holidays.  I'm not saying that those from the countries where the holidays come from understand their own holidays either.  Take Japanese holidays.  After talking to several young Japanese, I realized that I know more about the origins of their holidays than they do.  But if someone were to adopt the ways of somebody else, at least he must know what exactly it is he is adopting.

J: In my view, Japanese adoption of many western holidays has gone a bit too far. In essence, such adoption has been limited to  commercial/business effect of such holidays without much appreciation of the spiritual/social backgrounds of such holidays in their original jurisdictions.

ME-RI KU-RI-SU-MA-SU EVERYONE!